Medieval villages, hidden alleyways, and Charles de Gaulle’s hideaway are among the French gems discovered by our contributors
Secret alleys and courtyards in Lyon
As we ascended toward the basilica from the river in Lyon, we explored a labyrinth of hidden staircases and courtyards known as traboules. These passages are challenging to navigate, so we kept an eye out for the metal plaques that indicate some of the entrances. There’s almost no direct route from the river, but these pathways, originally used by the city’s silk workers, unveil delightful alleys and secluded courtyards that visitors can admire. At the summit, catching our breath, we were captivated by the Basilique Nôtre-Dame de Fourvière. In the crypt, we made another thrilling discovery: a vast mosaic depicting the sea battle of Lepanto, a site we had recently visited in Greece.
Fons, the village of your dreams
During the final stretch of our road trip to Jazz in Marciac, we stumbled upon Fons, nestled in the Quercy black triangle. This medieval village, set in a deep wooded valley of chestnut and oak trees, embodied the France of dreams: a village of stone and timber pathways, with swifts and swallows nesting in ancient structures, and a bistro that serves as the lively center of this charming place. Enjoying an aperitif in the market square under the Milky Way was the perfect way to conclude our visit.
Quiet corners in Charente-Maritime
If you find yourself in Charente-Maritime in the southwest, be sure to set aside a day to explore the area south of Royan, where you’ll discover a collection of peaceful spots all within close proximity. Begin your day at the Régulus caves, a troglodyte site offering views of the Cordouan lighthouse and showcasing traditional fishing nets hanging from the cliffs. From there, take a stroll southward to the village of Talmont-Sur-Gironde and visit the impressive 12th-century Sainte-Radegonde church, which boasts a commanding view of the estuary. Wander through the village’s narrow, car-free streets and admire the towering hollyhocks growing against the whitewashed walls. For a delightful culinary experience, dine on amazing seafood at Les Délices de l’Estuaire before heading to the archaeological site of Fâ.
Deep into Dordogne history
If you find yourself in the Dordogne region, a visit to the Gouffre de Padirac cave is a must. Situated between the Loire Valley and the Pyrenees, this incredible cave can be explored by descending 103 meters either by steps or by taking a lift. Once you reach the bottom, you’ll embark on a magical boat ride along a turquoise river within the cave. The ever-changing colors of the surrounding rock create a mesmerizing experience, almost as if you’ve stepped into a different world. For a more peaceful visit, it’s recommended to go during the off-season when there are fewer visitors. There’s also a small gift shop and café nearby for your convenience.
Glorious gardens in Nantes
In search of a luxurious hotel near Nantes airport for our final night of vacation, we discovered Château Colbert in Maulévrier. This magnificent mansion boasts a delightful restaurant and, even more impressively, features a restored vegetable garden that provides produce for the hotel, offering tours for guests. Adjacent to the château is the Parc Oriental de Maulévrier, a Japanese-style garden created during the same period as Monet’s famous garden at Giverny, reflecting the strong cultural influence of Japonisme. This visit beautifully concluded our garden-themed holiday.
Vineyard cycling in Alsace
In September, our cycling adventure through France took us to the Vosges mountains and Alsace in the east, where we discovered a hidden gem. Our accommodation at the Auberge Ramstein was affordable (starting from €87 for a double room) and located in Scherwiller. We were delighted to find numerous vineyards within walking distance, including the biodynamic Achillée and the traditional-method Domaine Dussourt. Unlike the bustling city of Strasbourg, the village and nearby town of Sélestat were peaceful. The area offered fantastic cycling routes on both flat terrain and hills, as well as plenty of hiking opportunities.
A champagne experience in De Gaulle country
I found myself in Colombey-les-Deux-Églises in northeastern France by chance. We were looking for dog-friendly accommodation on our journey south. Arriving on a crisp winter evening, we were greeted by a large moon illuminating a charming main square flanked by two churches. The square was lined with welcoming restaurants offering traditional food and champagne from the nearby hills. The phrase “France profonde” came to mind. In the daylight, we realized we were in the village where President Charles de Gaulle spent every other weekend and retired from politics. His residence, La Boisserie, is open to the public, and his modest tomb in the small churchyard overlooks the fields and hills. Colombey-les-Deux-Églises boasts several champagne houses and numerous small producers in the surrounding areas. Following the sign for Clairvaux, we stumbled upon the remains of one of Europe’s most significant medieval abbeys. The terrain is gentle, and with little traffic, it’s ideal for cycling exploration.
Forest bathing in Fontainebleau
Upon arriving at the forest of Fontainebleau, you’re immediately struck by the incredible scent of fresh pine, which feels like a cleansing experience for both body and soul. This ancient hunting ground is now a popular destination for walking, cycling, and climbing enthusiasts. For a dose of culture, don’t miss the breathtaking Château de Fontainebleau. For a quieter stay, consider the charming town of Bois-le-Roi, nestled within the forest and along the banks of the Seine. The town is conveniently located on a direct train line from Paris, so you can easily visit without needing a car, and the journey takes less than an hour, making it perfect for a day trip.
Art and architecture in Honfleur, Normandy
Located in northern France on the southern bank of the Seine estuary, Honfleur is a charming town with several attractions. Among its highlights are the old port and Sainte-Catherine church, the largest wooden church in France. As you wander through the town, which has inspired artists like Monet and Boudin, take in the sights of the slate-covered houses and the many captivating shops and galleries. As the day winds down, savor a glass of calvados at the harborside while watching the fishing boats along the Seine shore.
Winning tip: A museum to treasure near Lille
Musée La Piscine in Roubaix, just outside Lille, is a delightful collection of paintings, sculptures, and installations housed in a converted swimming pool. The art deco building adds to its allure, reminding me of a time when public buildings were both functional and aesthetically pleasing. At €9, the admission fee is a bargain. We spent three hours exploring and still didn’t cover everything. The on-site restaurant/tea room is also highly recommended.
