Plans for a cable car to reach the glacier have stirred discussion about the future of this beloved, laid-back ski spot for touring enthusiasts
Navigating a rugged granite ridge, adorned with vivid russet and lime-green lichen instead of snow, serves as a stark reminder of the advancing climate crisis. Accompanied by my guide, Maxant Danilo, we’re above 2,500 meters in the Hautes-Alpes. Despite it being late January, the conditions on these south-facing slopes resemble late spring. Rather than on our feet, our snowboards are secured to our backpacks.
Danilo, who works for a guide collective based in nearby La Grave, tells me the resort actually had one of the strongest starts to a winter season in recent years, with plenty of snow and low temperatures from November until the middle of January. The problem is, the constant mild weather since has melted much of the snowpack.
Yet he’s not too worried. “You can always find snow to go touring around La Grave, however unpredictable the conditions,” he says. And to be fair, aside from that rocky traverse on the ridge, we have. Using splitboards – snowboards that split into two to act as touring skis so you can hike uphill – we’ve climbed about 750 metres this morning, mostly on soft snow, with the odd patch of ice, for which we had to attach crampons to our splitboards.
The Col de Côte Plaine route, known for its relatively gentle terrain, serves as an excellent introduction to touring for skilled skiers or snowboarders, often chosen by Danilo for first-timers. Ascending from the sweeping valley to our picnic spot at the summit, we face the Écrins massif and the dramatic La Meije mountain. The vistas are stunning, with nothing but nature in sight, save for the occasional solar-powered weather station.
Encountering only a group of enthusiastic ski instructors planning to descend a steep couloir on their day off, we enjoy a leisurely lunch in the sunshine. The snowboard descent is exhilarating, with us navigating around patches of grass until the thawed terrain becomes predominant. Eventually, we walk the remaining stretch to the road, where Danilo hitchhikes back to retrieve his car parked where we began our journey in the morning.
The atmosphere in La Grave exudes a rebellious and traditional vibe, reminiscent of ski resorts from two decades ago
About twenty minutes into our ascent from the village, the old lift suddenly stops. Danilo calmly mentions that this interruption is one of the resort’s many charms, allowing skiers and snowboarders to admire La Meije mountain up close. Its dark grey rock stands out against the snow-covered glaciers surrounding it.
Unlike typical modern ski resorts with fast lifts shuttling thousands of skiers around extensive piste networks, a trip to La Grave offers a different experience. It’s about slowing down and appreciating these majestic yet delicate landscapes. Throughout the day, we’ll only do three runs, but they’ll be long and epic, with Danilo finding us some fantastic soft snow to ride. We encounter no more than a few people. Even on busy days with up to 700 people on the mountain, a fraction of the number seen at most ski resorts, the atmosphere remains tranquil as everyone quickly spreads out.
La Grave has a minimal environmental impact due to the absence of groomed slopes and artificial snowmaking. However, the future of the upper section of the resort, largely occupied by the Girose glacier, is contentious. An energy-intensive surface lift is supposed to transport skiers and snowboarders to the summit, but due to the glacier’s retreat, it can only operate partway. As a result, visitors must first use a rope tow pulled by a grooming machine for the initial section and then hike to the top after using the surface lift.
The lift company Aeon, which also owns nearby Alpe d’Huez and Les Deux Alpes, intends to substitute the surface lift with a cable car, allowing more visitors to access the glacier and enjoy the panoramic views that extend to Mont Blanc. However, numerous locals oppose the proposal and advocate for restoring the glacier to its natural state, limiting access to the summit to those willing to hike uphill for at least 40 minutes.
Many are concerned that the lift company would cater to a more upscale clientele if the cable car were constructed
Smart opposes the cable car idea and advocates for preserving the area for low-impact ski touring. She believes that the new lift infrastructure would impact people’s enjoyment of the upper glacier, an environment she considers unique and worth protecting. She emphasizes the accelerating loss of ice depth and volume in glaciers, a trend she believes will continue. Smart argues that limiting the top to touring would preserve the powder snow, a feature that attracts skiers and snowboarders to La Grave.
In contrast, a hotelier who has lived in La Grave for 46 years and witnessed the opening of his hotel and the lift to skiers supports the new plan. He believes that as a business owner, he cannot oppose such developments. The issue has divided the village and its surrounding hamlets, some of which have a history dating back to the 12th century.
La area lacks luxury hotels and large-scale après-ski venues like Folie Douce, which is present in eight Alpine resorts. It also has few shops aside from equipment rentals, a bakery, and a cheese shop. Despite this, prices remain quite reasonable. However, many are concerned that this could change if the cable car is constructed, leading the lift company to cater to a more upscale clientele. This shift, they fear, would not only alter the essence of La Grave but also make it less affordable for both locals and tourists.
At Gite le Rocher hostel (dorm beds from €60 half-board), breakfast and dinner were hearty and excellent. The walls are adorned with vintage snowboards, 80s music posters, giant Lego Pokémon builds, and stickers urging guests to boycott the region’s Winter Olympics bid.
The atmosphere at the hostel and throughout La Grave exudes a rebellious and old-school vibe, reminiscent of ski resorts from two decades ago but rarely seen since. As the reliability of snow in the Alps decreases and skiing becomes increasingly exclusive, this grassroots enclave focused on back-to-nature skiing, snowboarding, and touring, led by a passionate local guiding community, feels more significant than ever.
