Unlike bustling Mykonos, Tinos is renowned for its tranquil cafe-bars, taverna meals, and ancient footpaths connecting picturesque villages
We are staying at the House of Light (starting from £62 per night, £90 in summer, sleeps three, on Airbnb), a masterpiece where even the shower drains are crafted from local ceramics. I walk barefoot to the terrace and settle on the stone bench in the sun, overlooking a field of daisies, poppies, and mallow, with a view of the crumbling dovecote.
Our host informs us that, like all villages in Tinos, Kato Klisma is bustling in the summer but blissfully quiet in May, save for the whistling bee-eaters. Exploring a nearby alley, I follow the croaking of frogs to a labyrinth of bamboo-encircled fields where sheep graze among artichokes. The valley extends to Kolymbithra, featuring a stretch of white sand meeting blue cliffs, with dunes and lagoons inhabited by ducks and wading birds.
Further along are a few additional beaches adorned with casual cafe-bars. After peaceful moments by the sea, I stroll back, taking in the golden hue of the grassy hillsides and the swallows darting around me. Next, I ascend the hill to the village of Aetofolia (eagle’s nest) for a taverna meal: mushrooms sautéed in garlic and fresh parsley, beef burgers with mint, freshly cut fries, and crusty bread, topped off with a complimentary slice of halva.
Unlike the smaller yet bustling Mykonos, Tinos is renowned for its tranquil attractions. Pilgrims often approach a church on hands and knees to seek miracles or express gratitude to the Virgin. The island is also famous for its picturesque villages scattered across the hills and the network of ancient stone footpaths that once connected them.
Located near the rugged granite peak of Exombourgo, Loutra is home to an Ursuline monastery. In the 1880s, Englishwoman Mary-Ann Leeves operated a girls’ school here, having pianos delivered by mule along the steep paths.
Since then, things have evolved, and nowadays, most visitors rent a car at the harbor. A discerning clientele now frequents elegant villas and boutique village retreats that seamlessly blend luxury with tradition. They dine at restaurants offering contemporary cuisine and extensive wine selections.
Houses are clustered in a charming jumble, inaccessible to cars
With a different kind of wealth, we embarked on a journey to explore the island’s enchanting natural beauty on foot. Hills bear the marks of old terrace walls, while lush valleys are dotted with dovecotes that once housed birds for meat and fertilizer. Despite their humble origins, these structures resemble palaces for pigeons, each tower adorned with unique geometric patterns.
The island’s numerous charming villages, often with tongue-twisting names like Ktikados and Smardakito, feature blue-domed churches with elaborate belfries influenced by centuries of Venetian rule. Houses are clustered together in a charming chaos, inaccessible to cars. Thick white plaster walls, resembling cake icing, abound, along with carved marble arches over doors and windows, potted plants, and bubbling springs.
Empty hillsides and pristine beaches are also part of the landscape. Starting from the village of Potamia, where our host treats us to filo rolls drizzled with honey and cinnamon, I stroll past chapels and grazing sheep to Santa Margarita, a beach adorned with soft blue-green pebbles.
Another day, while heading towards Ayios Romanos beach on the opposite side of the island, I deviate from our route and stumble upon a beautiful arc of fine, pale sand gently sloping into the shimmering sea. The scene is framed by wild bushes and ancient stone ruins on a hillside backdrop.
I stop by the village of Komi, bustling with preparations for its annual artichoke festival. The lively square is filled with chatter as we enjoy cold organic Nissos beer from the local microbrewery, accompanied by bruschetta topped with juicy tomatoes. As night falls, we pass by sturdy cattle settling in the fields, milk cans resting at the roadside, and falcons soaring above old windmills.
At a taverna managed by Mathios for over two decades, we indulge in steaks, a salad adorned with capers and cheese, and wine for a few euros per carafe. Later, we walk back home under the twinkling stars, serenaded by the peeping of scops owls.
