Our slow travel expert explores the legacy of popes and revolutionaries on a journey from Kraków to the resort town in the Tatra Mountains
Nine trains depart Kraków each weekday for Zakopane, Poland’s premier mountain retreat. In 1936, the fastest trains took under 2½ hours. Nearly a century later, only one of those nine trains maintains this speed after several years of infrastructure renewal, highlighting the state of railways in rural Poland.
Those in a rush to reach Zakopane from Kraków typically opt for the nonstop bus, which takes two hours. However, the train offers a more leisurely, eco-friendly alternative. With time to spare, I choose one of the slower trains, promising 48 intermediate stops. Yes, 48. The litany of stations along the route—Sieniawa, Skawina, Stronie, Stryszów, Szaflary—adds a touch of Slavic magic.
Departing from Kraków’s main station, we pass St. Nicholas Church on the right, featuring a fine Armenian votive cross in its garden. To the left is one of Kazimierz district’s two Jewish cemeteries. Soon, we cross the Vistula River on an impressive bridge with a lattice of girders. Until 1846, this winding river marked the frontier between the Free City of Kraków (Rzeczpospolita Krakowska) and the Austro-Hungarian Empire.
We come to a halt at Zabłocie, a community that, during Kraków’s era as a city-state, served as a location for Habsburg bureaucrats to oversee activities. This area was once bustling with commercial energy, as it was from here that salt mined at Wieliczka was shipped downriver. Today, tourists visit to see the former enamelware factory featured in Steven Spielberg’s Schindler’s List.
We halt at several suburban stations, many of which are either brand new or recently renovated. Sanktuarium station is particularly notable, as it serves the memorial complex and sanctuary dedicated to the late Polish pope, now canonized as Saint John Paul II. This rail route passes through numerous locations that were significant in the early life of the future pope.
Journeying through the Beskid Hills offers a picturesque glimpse of the landscape’s beauty and charm
As we depart Kraków, our journey offers glimpses of modern churches, rusting railway sidings, and concrete flyovers. In the distance, oriental domes hint at a nightclub rather than Byzantium. Continuing on, we pass through Skawina, which suffered pollution from an aluminum smelter for decades, before gliding past orchards planted long ago by Bernardine (Franciscan) monks.
The route from Skawina south to Zakopane is single track. Our destination is the Tatras Mountains, near the Slovakian border, but first, we traverse the Beskid Hills. The charm of today’s train journey lies in its dance with the landscape. It shifts direction here and there, occasionally veering assertively south but more often following the natural contours of the land. At times, the hillsides steepen, yet occasionally, the terrain opens up to reveal magnificent views of the High Tatras.
On the hills, we catch a glimpse of the monastery church of Kalwaria Zebrzydowska, where Pope John Paul II celebrated his last mass on Polish soil in 1979—an event I was fortunate to witness. Here, the railway passes through an extraordinary UNESCO World Heritage site: the 17th-century Mannerist Architectural and Park Landscape Complex and Pilgrimage Park, often described as a substitute Holy Land. This site is the most ambitious of Europe’s sacri monti, and even 400 years after its creation, it is still maintained by the Bernardines, who present dramatic re-enactments of Christ’s Passion at Easter.
As the train glides past a monumental crucifix, a fellow passenger catches my attention. She is an elderly woman with strong hands and hennaed hair, who crosses herself. Observing my interest in the passing landscape, she shares that on certain Catholic feast days, trains make special stops to allow passengers to disembark directly into the park. The landscapes of Kalwaria Zebrzydowska are rich in religious symbolism, and the complex is so vast that one could visit many times without retracing the same devotional path.
Bolshevik connections
We arrive at the Skawa Valley, which has been recently altered by a significant new dam project. The railway crosses the river on a striking new bridge before skirting the reservoir. Our train has to reverse twice as we navigate the stop-and-go progress through the Beskid Hills. In Chabówka, there is an impressive collection of old steam engines in the sidings. From here, we ascend south, cresting a gentle summit before descending to Nowy Targ, where Vladimir Ilyich Lenin was briefly imprisoned.
The final stretch of my journey, from Nowy Targ to Zakopane, always evokes mixed feelings. The increasing number of wooden houses hints at the rich vernacular architecture that characterizes the Polish Tatras. However, at this point, the railway runs parallel to the main highway to Zakopane, which is lined with billboards and fast-food outlets. Just before Biały Dunajec, we cross the 700-meter contour, near the village where Lenin once resided. In 1913, Lenin wrote, “This is almost Russia,” referring to the proximity of the border of the Tsarist empire. Our train pauses at Poronin station, a place Lenin would regularly cycle to collect his mail. In 1913, the village hosted a landmark Bolshevik congress.
Ahead, the distinct silhouette of the High Tatras marks the southern skyline. These are the hills where the young future Pope would roam, tracing the paths Lenin had hiked while contemplating developments in Russia. For poets, philosophers, future saints, and revolutionaries alike, the railway to Zakopane has long been infused with creative energy and the promise of pristine mountain air.
“The next stop is Zakopane,” announces the guard in both English and Polish as he makes his way through the train. A few minutes later, we glide to a halt at Zakopane’s recently renovated station. Situated 835 meters above sea level, snow often remains well into spring. However, I am well equipped and set off into the hills, following a path that I recall being signposted years ago as one of Lenin’s regular routes. The religious sentiments have shifted, and nowadays, pictures of John Paul II are attached to a tree along the trail.
Travel facts
The quickest daily train from Kraków to Zakopane departs in the mid-morning and takes 2 hours and 26 minutes. All other trains take over three hours, with the slowest journey lasting almost four hours. The one-way fare on the slower, local trains is 22.50 złoty (£4.50). Tickets must be purchased before boarding the train, either online or at the station. Seats can only be reserved on the faster trains, which can be done at intercity.pl. Fares vary, but advance tickets typically cost £6 for second class and £11 for first class.
