To relish the serrated mountain peaks, pristine white sandy beaches, charming red fishing huts, and exceptional lighting in Norway’s Lofoten Islands, paddling is the ultimate way.
After a 3½-hour ferry ride from mainland Bodø through the pitch-black Arctic waters of northernmost Norway to the Lofoten Islands, we arrive at Svolvaer harbor amid windy and rainy conditions. My girlfriend and I have made this journey to experience the world’s most stunning and isolated landscapes through kayaking – an age-old terrain of jagged mountain peaks, ethereal white coral beaches, and an unparalleled remoteness found nowhere else on earth.
The following morning, we awaken to a deluge of rain that pounds the island with a force resembling that of Thor’s hammer, as the elements continue to assert their dominance. Despite the misty conditions, the main settlement and transportation center of Svolvaer reveals an awe-inspiring natural spectacle of towering mountains overlooking a mixture of humble red timber fishing huts and contemporary Lego-style hotels. Although it may seem architecturally disparate, the quaint town, adorned with galleries, souvenir shops, and cafes, possesses a simple and endearing charm that quickly captivates us.
The following day, we embark on a 45-minute drive westward to Reine, famed for its elevated cabins and a stunning turquoise bay surrounded by jagged mountain peaks, which has earned it a reputation as one of the world’s most picturesque villages. Our guide for the day’s kayaking adventure is the bubbly Runhild, who operates Reine Paddling from her charming boutique hotel, Catogården. As we head towards Sakrisøy, the quaint village where the hit TV series Twin was filmed, the water begins to ripple and darken. Meanwhile, the weather beyond the harbor grows unsettled, with the wind creating choppy waters as we paddle. Runhild shares stories of her past as an actor and fisher, recounting how she used to fish with her father before he perished at sea.
