Lilja Birgisdóttir, the artist, shares her preferred cultural, dining, and bathing spots
Food
Amid the pandemic’s rent decline downtown, numerous ambitious shops, cafes, and eateries emerged, infusing the city with revitalization.
Recently, a vegan café named Plantan emerged close to my treasured swimming spot. Their soups, sandwiches, and baked delights are truly delightful, especially post-swim. Another cherished location is Kaffi Ó-le, where Tom, the manager, brews the finest coffee and matcha lattes in town.
In 2020, my childhood companions Númi, Atli, and Aðalsteinn introduced a cozy eatery called Hosiló. It offers a trio of main courses: fish, meat, and vegan. I’ve relished exceptional seafood and gnocchi there. Everything is handcrafted and reasonably priced. Since it’s petite, reserving a table ahead is wise.
Inspiration
Housed within a former fish factory by the historic harbor, Marshall House stands as a hub of culture. Its premises encompass dual galleries: Kling & Bang, an artist-operated space, showcases works from emerging talents in the underground scene alongside those of well-established figures.
Nýló, known as the Living Art Museum, is a grassroots establishment that exhibits modern artworks. It’s a delightful experience to indulge in Italian cuisine and beverages at La Primavera on the building’s ground floor before ascending to encounter the captivating art above. Admission to both galleries is complimentary.
Furthermore, Mengi is a remarkable space that hosts a variety of artistic events, concerts, and everything in between. It’s advisable to explore their schedule while in town to catch what’s happening.
Neighbourhood
Ascending the slender, cobblestoned lanes of Grjótaþorp, you’ll encounter exquisite vintage residences within one of the city’s most ancient districts. Nestled at the intersection of Fischersund and Mjóstræti, the petite red edifice of Gröndal’s House stands—a residence once inhabited by the artist and naturalist Benedikt Gröndal until his passing in 1907.
Presently, it serves as a cultural haven and artists’ retreat, offering routine events promoted on the Reykjavik Unesco City of Literature website.
Green (and blue) space
For us Icelanders, the local swimming pools serve as a vital connection point – a place where we gather and engage in conversations while soaking in the hot tubs. The charming Sundhöllinn stands as Reykjavík’s oldest indoor pool, envisioned by the architect Guðjón Samúelsson. Another appealing choice is Vesturbæjarlaug, which is conveniently reachable with a pleasant 20-minute stroll from Tjörnin lake.
Exploring Nauthólsvik beach is also a delightful experience. The seawater is heated through geothermal means, maintaining temperatures of 15-19°C during the summer. Visitors take dips in the man-made lagoon before relishing hot tubs, sandy shores, and steam baths. Even in winter, some locals venture for swims here.
Speaking of open natural areas, Heiðmörk, positioned just a 15-minute drive from Reykjavík, offers a woodland, a picturesque lake, and an abundance of trails to discover amidst the lava formations.
Nightlife
Possibly due to Reykjavík’s relatively modest size, the city lacks expansive standalone clubs. Instead, the nightlife scene involves bars transitioning into dance venues, where people groove into the late hours. Personally, I’m fond of Röngten. They craft fantastic cocktails, and I invariably run into familiar faces there. As the night progresses, a DJ takes over, and the dance floor ignites until dawn.
Additionally, there’s a captivating wine bar named Mikki Refur. By day, it operates as a cafe, and by night, it showcases natural wines and small delectable offerings. Vínstúkan follows a similar pattern, offering remarkable wine selections.
Stay
Amidst the proliferation of upscale new hotels, my affection lies with Hotel Holt (starting at £290 for room only). It’s a pricier choice, yet its legacy dates back to the 1960s and boasts an array of captivating artworks by renowned figures like Jóhannes Sveinsson Kjarval—whose creations are also displayed at Reykjavík Art Museum.
Adjacent to our store, you’ll find Reykjavík Treasure B&B (starting at £220 with breakfast included), skillfully overseen by the remarkable Steinunn. It exudes a warm coziness and enjoys a prime spot in the old town. From here, you can embark in various directions towards intriguing sites, including the Icelandic Phallological Museum. Initially established by my former instructor many years ago, it has since become a highly sought-after attraction.
For those seeking a budget-friendly option, consider KEX Hostel (starting at £125 for doubles), nestled within a repurposed waterfront biscuit factory. The ground floor houses a bar where local musicians and DJs create an immersive experience.
