Stroll through a North Yorkshire spa town, visit the Victorian baths, and enjoy a festive pint and top-notch cuisine at this charmingly renamed historic pub.
Harrogate adorns itself with Christmas charm and panache, thanks to its wealth of splendid gritstone buildings and Victorian shop windows evoking a bygone era. My final destination is the Coach & Horses on West Park, temporarily renamed the Sleigh & Reindeers for the festive season.
Embarking from the railway station, I journey north, passing by one of the country’s renowned cafes, Bettys. A glimpse inside reveals a spectacle of polished woodwork and brass, with impeccably attired staff reminiscent of a Charles Dickens scene, ready to serve cakes with names like ginger tart and fat rascal. Despite the temptation, it’s too early in the walk to indulge.
Descending the hill, I arrive at the focal point of the 19th-century grandeur: the spa pump room. Now a captivating museum, around the back, a brass tap offers a taste of the town’s fame—its infamous stinking sulphur waters, believed by Victorian medical experts to be a universal remedy for almost everything, except gullibility. A warning sign advises against trying the water, but curiosity gets the better of me. The experience is, without a doubt, unpleasant.
Follow your senses as you pass through the grand gates into Valley Gardens and stroll upstream, encountering impressive beds of Gunnera manicata, commonly known as “giant rhubarb.” In winter, these beds are carefully covered to protect the rhizomes of this Brazilian native species. Occasionally, a hint of sulphur wafts from the beck, imparting a touch of wild volcanic ambiance to the meticulously landscaped surroundings. The gardens boast numerous botanical treasures, including the dawn redwood, the Wollemi pine, and a black mulberry. Some trees in this haven trace back to the park’s inauguration in 1887, commemorating Queen Victoria’s golden jubilee.
Moreover, the park harbors many of Harrogate’s 35 springs and wells, each presenting a unique blend of dissolved chemicals. In their prime, these natural features attracted a cadre of charlatans offering various remedies and treatments.
In 1571, William Slingsby initiated a transformative era by identifying a healing water reminiscent of one he had encountered during his European grand tour. By the 1840s, the town had evolved into a flourishing retreat for the wealthy, renowned, and ailing, all convinced that strict regimens of enforced spa water intake and rest held the key to their well-being. The original exhibits at the Royal Pump Room Museum capture the essence of the time, emphasizing the benefits of a leisurely walk home without undue fatigue. Those physicians of yesteryear would be astounded to witness today’s joggers and power walkers exerting themselves on paths where once the crown princes and princesses of Europe engaged in occasional listless strolls.
Ascending into the Pinewoods, a sprawling 31-hectare (76-acre) plantation, I notice a sudden hush among the small birds, interrupted only by the swift passage of a sparrowhawk overhead. After a mile, I arrive at Harlow Carr, one of the five Royal Horticultural Society show gardens. Enthusiasts of plants may wish to take a detour through these gardens, constructed atop sulphur springs.
Arriving here after dark in December? Experience the annual winter “Glow” illuminations festival. Alternatively, enjoy delightful walks around the kitchen, Alpine, and winter gardens. The cafe, a branch of Bettys (hooray!), serves as a perfect lunch stop, though it can get busy with queues forming. If you’re in need of a takeaway for the afternoon, the on-site shop has you covered.
Once back on the path, head northward via the public footpath towards Oak Beck. For an extended adventure, consider taking the Harrogate Link path, adding a four-mile diversion to John of Gaunt’s castle at Beaver Dyke reservoir. Note that the link ultimately connects with the Dales Way at Ilkley. Given the shorter winter days, it’s advisable to turn east and follow the ridge of Birk Crag. After crossing the road, take the narrow ginnel (we’re in Yorkshire, remember) between large detached houses leading to the river. Turn right and meander through enchanting woods of beech and oak, with the town golf course on your left.
This particular route is a segment of the Harrogate Ringway. You have the option to descend to the gorge of the River Nidd and continue for approximately five miles to Knaresborough, where you can conveniently catch a train back to Harrogate. Alternatively, ascend the slope to re-emerge at Valley Gardens.
The perfect conclusion to your walk awaits. In days gone by, visitors might have headed to the Royal Baths for a “Scotch douche” or “ozone therapy.” However, since the baths have been transformed into a Chinese restaurant, the sole relic of that era is the Turkish baths. Unveiled in 1897, this splendidly ornate Victorian interpretation of an Ottoman hammam offers a steam room, cold plunge pool, and various relaxation areas with different temperatures. If timed right, it provides a beneficial conclusion to a not overly strenuous stroll.
