The city, ranked as the world’s most sustainable destination, offers new free swimming pools, additional theme park attractions, and shines as a beacon of Scandi design
On a gloriously sunny, albeit gusty, early-June day, my son Zac and I find ourselves at Gothenburg’s newly established bathing harbor. We are among the first to embrace the elements at an open-air complex of swimming and diving pools located in Frihamnen, a section of the city’s docklands that fell into disuse during the 1970s.
The inauguration of these pools is part of the city’s 400th-anniversary celebrations, which span throughout the year, delayed from 2021 due to the pandemic. (Similar circumstances arose during its 300-year anniversary plans in 1921, following the Spanish flu pandemic and the First World War.) This west coast city began as a fortified trading colony, mainly influenced by the Dutch, established by King Gustavus Adolphus. Over time, it has evolved into Sweden’s primary fishing port and second-largest city.
A decade ago, Gothenburg asked its residents what they desired for its 400th anniversary, having already presented them with the Liseberg amusement park during the city’s third centenary. This time, they expressed a wish for a swimming spot in the inner city, accessible to everyone, not just limited to more affluent areas. The day of our visit marks the fulfillment of that collective dream.
The pools are ingeniously designed without a bottom, allowing them to be open to the harbor while preventing seal intrusion with the help of protective nets. The water is treated naturally and operates with energy efficiency by pumping clean seawater from beneath the harbor’s surface. Adding to the charm of the location, there are well-thought-out children’s playgrounds adorned with large stone mollusc shells for playful climbing. The area also boasts various community-driven open-air pop-ups, including recycling workshops, a DJ pavilion, and convenient changing rooms – all available free of charge. As an extra treat, there’s a sauna constructed from recycled shipping materials, although it’s currently undergoing refurbishment.
Everywhere you glance, people zoom along the city’s extensive and spacious bike paths that intersect throughout the urban landscape. Although Zac and I don’t partake in the cycling frenzy, we delight in spending a Sunday morning leisurely exploring the city’s charming harbor and Dutch-style canals. To our delight, we steer a little self-drive electric boat with a wooden rudder, marveling at the picturesque houseboats, historic warships, and bustling ferries.
Upon our return to the city center, we catch a glimpse of the Swedish king and queen arriving at the city hall in an elegant carriage, participating in the anniversary celebrations. Afterward, we take a moment to relax, enjoying a refreshing drink on the canal-side terrace of Havsbaren Tyska Bron.
Another enjoyable mode of transportation is boarding the city’s blue trams, which come in various styles, some nostalgically retro and others more modern. Moreover, in the coming years, Gothenburg is set to introduce a one-line metro loop, aiming to alleviate car traffic and provide a direct link to the airport. This forward-thinking initiative reflects the city’s proactive nature, as it continually seeks progress. Notably, in the Global Destination Sustainability Index of 2022, Gothenburg was recognized as the world’s most sustainable destination for the sixth time, a testament to its unwavering commitment to sustainability.
Discovering Gothenburg, I find that it offers an incredible experience for teenagers, making it an ideal destination to hang out with my 15-year-old. As my teen is a theme-park enthusiast, one of the reasons for our visit is the inauguration of the Liseberg Grand Curiosa hotel within the amusement park. The hotel’s design resembles a traditional pale-brick Gothenburg building, presenting a fairytale-like property with delightful and quirky features. The dining hall showcases a vintage carousel, and we had great fun sliding down a spiral slide from the top floor to the lobby. Additionally, the hotel surprises with a Hong Kong-styled restaurant and a rooftop terrace boasting an outdoor meat grill, providing a mesmerizing view of the rides. We also learn that starting next year, the hotel will grant direct access to Oceana, the water park at Liseberg, which is scheduled to open in May/June.
Zac is thrilled with our corner room, offering a view of one of the rides, Europe’s longest dive coaster called Valkyria. The Grand Curiosa hotel stands out with its stylish décor, which is unusual for a theme-park hotel. The rooms feature botanical or funfair-themed headboards and adorable bunk rooms with curtains, especially designed for children. Each floor has its unique theme, inspired by the semi-fictional adventures of 18th-century Gothenburg adventurer Agnes Daler. Furthermore, the hotel boasts a speakeasy-themed cocktail bar, catering to adults, and serving enticing freakshakes for the young ones. Notably, the reception desk is fitted with little windows filled with curiosities, ensuring entertainment for children while parents check-in.
