As I drove through a valley with steep sides in the Vanoise National Park of the French Alps, I noticed something in the sky that caught my attention. The massive, dark and raggedy object was so difficult for my mind to comprehend that I initially assumed it was a drone with a trailing bin bag. However, as it flew directly above me, I caught a glimpse of its orange underbelly and recognized that it was actually an enormous bird.
After conducting a quick search on Google, it became apparent that the bird I had witnessed was not a golden eagle, despite their presence in the region. Instead, it was a lammergeier or bearded vulture, which several breeding pairs call home in this part of the Savoie. These enormous scavengers boast a wingspan of up to 2.8 metres and were reintroduced to the Alps in the 1980s after being hunted to extinction a century prior. Historically referred to as “devil birds,” they were notorious predators not only to sheep (hence the name “lamb vulture”) but also small children. Considering the size of my own two children in the backseat, I was cautious and promptly engaged the childlock.
The arrangement caters to everyone’s preferences, including various skiing styles. In my case, as an adventurous snowboarder who enjoys riding on powder, as well as a mother travelling with my five and eight-year-old children, the setup was ideal. My partner, on the other hand, prefers extreme skiing, and we both appreciate discovering small but remarkable ski towns. Additionally, I was feeling nostalgic and wanted to revisit the Maurienne region, where I first learned to ski on snow at Valfréjus in 1988. If we could fulfill all of these criteria, it would be an extraordinary trip.
Observing such a unique creature is not a typical activity during a ski vacation, but I had ventured to a more rugged region of the French Alps, where the experience is unlike anything else.
Despite it being Easter and almost springtime, as we arrived at Val-Cenis, the most extensive and family-oriented resort, snow could be seen all the way to the village. With 62 slopes that face north, the resort typically retains snow for a longer period. Although this year’s conditions are uncertain, particularly with the ever-changing climate and the inconsistent season we’ve experienced, there is a higher probability of adequate coverage during Easter.
Similar to numerous other families in the know, we were lodged in one of the spacious and tidy apartments with a pool and spa at Les Chalets de Flambeau, conveniently located at the base of the beginner slopes in Lanslevillard, one of several Val Cenis towns linked by lifts and runs.
We went on a family trip to Valfréjus, a small ski resort with 23 pistes that opened in 1983 during the rise of mass-market skiing. Although I was only eight years old during my last visit, I vaguely remembered the purpose-built blocks at the base of the village. As my children joyfully glided down a ridge run between two bowls, I couldn’t help but feel a sense of nostalgia and a tear welled up in my eye, as their grins reminded me of my own and my sister’s at the same age. We had fallen in love with snowy mountains after months of learning on a dry slope in Staffordshire.
As we arrived in Bonneval, it felt as though we were stepping into a living history book. The landscape was rugged and the dark wooden chalets were nestled tightly against it.
Following a week in Val-Cenis, our holiday took on a completely different character as we headed westward. The snow in Val-Cenis had been steadily deteriorating, changing from a smooth and firm texture to a bumpy, soft consistency as the sunny days progressed. However, when we drove just 30 minutes to Bonneval-sur-Arc, which was at a higher elevation, it felt like we were transported back to the heart of winter. Past Bessans, a resort for cross-country skiing with trails surrounding a still-frozen lake, the landscape became increasingly reminiscent of the Himalayas. Along the way, we caught sight of the bin-bag-bird and a group of chamois traversing between dark boulders.
As we entered Bonneval, it felt as though we had stepped into a living history book detailing the traditional alpine way of life. The rugged landscape was punctuated by dark wooden chalets nestled amidst it, while the striking Vanoise mountains loomed in the distance. We had rented a modern apartment in an old stone building, which stood out from its surroundings due to its oversized lightbulbs, underfloor heating, and sleek black bathrooms – all signs of a design-oriented approach that seemed out of place in such a wild setting. Instead, the slopeside Rockabar cafe, adorned with fluttering Himalayan prayer flags, was a better match for the rustic atmosphere.
As spring truly took hold, the hillsides began to transform into a vibrant green, with wild crocuses bursting into life. While the skiing remained enjoyable, we also took the opportunity to indulge in other outdoor activities, such as fell-running to the quaint hamlet of L’Ecot situated at the valley’s upper end, hiking, and spotting various creatures like frogs and lizards. We even paused to wade in the icy cold streams that ran down the hillsides. For après-ski, we simply lounged on our balcony, basking in the warm sunshine and watching marmots dart across the grassy slopes below.
With activities such as paddling, sunbathing, and wildlife watching, we found ourselves ticking even more boxes off our list of desired experiences. This trip was not just for skiers of every level, but also for a diverse range of holidaymakers, including those like us who were seeking a multifaceted vacation experience.
