Faro transcends its Algarve gateway role; modernism enthusiasts now appreciate its sleek, sunlit angular structures.
Under the morning sun’s intense glare, downtown Faro’s streets form a rich tapestry of textures. Weathered art deco storefronts share space with deteriorating neighbors sporting rusty balustrades and handcrafted fondant tiles. A bank appears around the corner, resembling an ice-cream sandwich bathed in pistachio-hued light. Throughout the area, you’ll find structures that lean more towards nouveau than art. These layers of recent history have captivated me.
Yet, in this often overlooked city filled with dusty curiosities, it’s the modernist architecture that steals the spotlight. Characterized by its clean lines, flat roofs, and sharp angles, Faro boasts over 500 of these mid-century structures, the densest concentration in southern Europe. Surprisingly, it’s only recently that people have begun to take notice. From imposing high-rises reminiscent of Rio’s architectural style with geometric scalloped facades to modernist villas, these buildings share a captivating blend of structural clarity and audacious design that modern enthusiasts find irresistible.
In the early 1950s, a group of Portuguese architects, led by Manuel Gomes da Costa from the Algarve, returned to their homeland after amassing wealth in South America. They were determined to challenge prevailing political values and discard outdated concepts. Influenced by architectural luminaries like Le Corbusier, Frank Lloyd Wright, and Oscar Niemeyer, their mission was to breathe new life into the region. In this regard, their interpretation of modernism, known as the “South Modern” style, played a pivotal role in addressing Faro’s previous lack of distinctive character.
Yet, in this often overlooked city filled with dusty curiosities, it’s the modernist architecture that steals the spotlight. Characterized by its clean lines, flat roofs, and sharp angles, Faro boasts over 500 of these mid-century structures, the densest concentration in southern Europe. Surprisingly, it’s only recently that people have begun to take notice. From imposing high-rises reminiscent of Rio’s architectural style with geometric scalloped facades to modernist villas, these buildings share a captivating blend of structural clarity and audacious design that modern enthusiasts find irresistible.
In the early 1950s, a group of Portuguese architects, led by Manuel Gomes da Costa from the Algarve, returned to their homeland after amassing wealth in South America. They were determined to challenge prevailing political values and discard outdated concepts. Influenced by architectural luminaries like Le Corbusier, Frank Lloyd Wright, and Oscar Niemeyer, their mission was to breathe new life into the region. In this regard, their interpretation of modernism, known as the “South Modern” style, played a pivotal role in addressing Faro’s previous lack of distinctive character.
For a simple comparison, you might refer to it as the “Palm Springs of Portugal,” although the local buildings possess an unmistakably distinctive character. Gomes da Costa is renowned for a style often described as tropical futurism, which ingeniously positioned nature in opposition to the elements. His designs, influenced by Brazil, include cobogós—perforated concrete slabs—crafted to both cool facades and cast intricate shadowy patterns with filtered light. Everything he conceived exalts the sun in some manner, which makes it somewhat ironic that these buildings are now luring people away from the beaches and onto the city’s streets.
Located on Rua Dom Francisco Gomes, The Modernist hotel (starting at €150 per night, minimum two nights) occupies a former maritime office transformed into guest apartments, making it an ideal choice for those comfortable with the “archi-tourist” label. Resembling a symmetrical chest of drawers perched above a lottery kiosk, this architectural homage to a bygone era, once dubbed “the ugliest building in Faro,” has matured into a unique gem. The rooms here are intentionally simple, devoid of TVs and wall art. Instead, they feature local green marble, red vinyl floors, and beds that evoke a feeling of home comfort. The Modernist embodies a no-frills form of luxury, if such a term exists, with a strong emphasis on clean lines.
The proprietors, Christophe and Angelique, are Parisians who arrived in Faro four years ago and never looked back. “Faro is a miracle of design and architecture,” remarks Christophe. “It was love at first sight. It felt like Havana – overlooked but possessing incredible heritage. Perhaps the comparison is ambitious, but it undeniably exudes a similar vibe. It may not be the most picturesque city in the Algarve, and it lacks polish, but there’s plenty to uncover here, and in our view, much that deserves preservation.”
