At the Vogel-Bohinj ski area, nature speaks for itself: billboards and snow cannons are prohibited, and cable cars and car parks are discreetly nestled in the woods
Navigating Slovenia’s Julian Alps, one could easily overlook the signs leading to the Vogel ski center and continue driving. The cable car and parking area are discreetly hidden within the woods overlooking the stunning Lake Bohinj. This intentional approach maintains the landscape’s pristine beauty, free from tourist congestion and visible ski infrastructure. The outcome is one of the most environmentally harmonious skiing areas in Europe.
From its concealed entry point in the woods, the cable car ascends to Vogel, revealing breathtaking views: towering mountains above, snowy churches below, and the deep blue lake shrinking to the size of a puddle beneath.
It only took a few minutes to collect skis from the rental center at the summit before I set off, following the curve of the slopes, my legs adjusting to the winter terrain. Vogel is compact, with mostly intermediate (red) and easy (blue) runs—ideal for cruising through the forest, taking in the unspoiled nature on either side. The slope markers are all made of wood, with no billboards or visible snow cannons, as Bohinj’s Triglav National Park prohibits them for environmental reasons. Artificial snow can delay the arrival of spring, disrupting the mountain’s natural cycle.
Among their Balkan neighbors, the Slovenes are known as “the skiers,” a reputation earned during World War II when Slovenian partisans battled the Nazis in the Alps bordering Italy and Austria on skis. The country has also produced a significant number of medalists in snow sports for the region. Jure Franko, a former Slovenian-Yugoslavian alpine skier, frequently secured gold medals for the Yugoslav Olympic team. During the 1984 Winter Olympics in Sarajevo, locals expressed their adoration by chanting: “Jure Franko, we love you more than burek!” (Burek is a highly esteemed filled filo pastry roll; declaring greater love for something else is considered blasphemy.)
Having a visually stunning landscape with concealed ski infrastructure is a significant advantage.
The Slovenian mountains have retained much of their original appearance since the days of the partisans and Yugoslavia, largely due to the eco-conscious planning policies of the park authorities. These policies prohibit the construction of large hotels and even prevented the building of an additional chairlift in nearby Soriška Planina to protect the nesting ground of the endangered wild Styrian hen.
This preservation of the landscape also reflects the Slovenes’ deep connection to their mountains. Soriška Planina and Pokljuka are just an hour’s drive from the capital, Ljubljana, so not everyone requires a hotel near the slopes. Many simply hop in their cars and head to the mountains for a day of skiing. The mountains hold a special place in the national consciousness. “People take care of the mountains because it’s just what we all do,” said Blaz Kavcic, an outdoorsy Ljubljanian who has been skiing since childhood.
On my second day back on skis after years away, I decided to book a lesson with Kavcic from Activity Break to enhance my carving technique. Kavcic instructs both tourists and local children. He explained that skiing is a popular sport in Slovenia because “it’s a people’s sport, not something elite.” While on the slopes that day, most of the children effortlessly zipped past me with much better skiing skills, much to my embarrassment.
While skiing has become more expensive since the Yugoslav era, it remains significantly cheaper than in neighboring Austria and Italy. For example, I paid €42 for my pass at Vogel, and a one-week pass costs €197. Visitors can opt to stay in affordable guesthouses in villages around Lake Bohinj, such as Stara Fužina, which is a 20-minute drive from the Vogel ski center. Alternatively, they can choose eco-conscious hotels like Hotel Bohinj and Triglav. These hotels offer seasonal menus and exclusively use natural or recycled products. During my trip, I stayed with a friend in Ljubljana but treated myself to an evening at Hotel Bohinj to enjoy its outdoor pool and sauna, perfect for relaxing after a day of skiing.
Fortunately, the snow conditions were superb during my visit, with brilliant sunshine. However, if conditions are unfavorable, there are plenty of alternative activities nearby. Aware that the climate crisis is making the ski season increasingly unpredictable, local guides from companies like Activity Break also offer hiking, biking, and wild swimming in lakes.
Wood smoke wafted from the chimneys of houses further down the valley. This is reminiscent of the landscape in Heidi.
One of the activities they offer is cross-country ski training. Following a few days of skiing in Vogel, I decided to explore the cross-country trails in Pokljuka, a high plateau located a 20-minute drive from lakes Bled and Bohinj. This area is home to Slovenia’s biathlon training center, a sport that combines cross-country skiing with shooting. The sport, originally from Scandinavia, gained popularity in Slovenia partly due to the tradition of hunting on skis for game and the occasional bear. The Slovenian army continues to use the center to train its specialist mountain fighters.
Following another lesson with Kavcic, I glide through the woods, traversing a section of the 25-mile (40km) cross-country loop around the national park. The dense canopy of trees and recent snowfall dampened all noise, creating a serene atmosphere. The trail eventually led to meadows and a picturesque picnic spot.
Wood smoke wafted from the chimneys of houses in villages farther down the valley, where hay is still hand-dried in rickety barns. This landscape evokes images from “Heidi”: slightly Austrian but somehow older, quieter, and more magical.
While other ski resorts are investing in more artificial methods to cope with declining snowfall, ecologists in Bohinj are approaching their winter season differently. “We understand the signs of the times,” said Klemen Langus, head of Bohinj’s tourism board and a policymaker in the national park. “Previously, Slovenia felt it couldn’t compete with Austria or Italy in snow sports; we simply didn’t have the resources. But now we realize that not being burdened with large resorts and having a visually stunning landscape with hidden ski infrastructure is a major advantage. Even if skiing declines, we still have pristine nature.”
However, Langus remains optimistic about the future of skiing. Bohinj is organizing a cross-country skiing festival from 22nd to 25th March to celebrate the 100th anniversary of the national park. Meanwhile, at Pokljuka, efforts are underway to conserve piles of snow under foil and woodchips for the next year. While global heating may be causing ski seasons to become increasingly unpredictable, Slovenia is prepared.
