A book club housed in a former petrol station, an electronic music hub located in a repurposed bus garage… Leeds, the largest city in Yorkshire, is a thriving center of grassroots creativity
“Leeds boasts a vibrant independent arts scene,” says Emma Beverley, the director of programs at Leeds 2023, last year’s cultural showcase. “Much of it stems from an artist-led movement that is quite groundbreaking.”
In 2017, Leeds bid to become the European Capital of Culture, investing £1 million in the effort. However, the bid was derailed when Brexit automatically disqualified British cities from contention. In true Yorkshire fashion, the city proceeded with its own year-long cultural celebration.
Having lived in Leeds for five years, I can attest to its suitability as a cultural capital. The city boasts a rich food and drink scene, lively nightlife, and a thriving live music scene. Additionally, it is home to unconventional cultural venues where grassroots artists flourish. Leeds is also recognized as one of the top student cities in the UK, with many graduates choosing to remain and contribute to its vibrant cultural revival.
Leeds is a compact city that has become even more accessible for exploration on foot due to recent pedestrianization efforts. The city center is the hub of activity, featuring the charming Kirkgate neighborhood with its bustling market and impressive Corn Exchange, as well as the creative Leeds Dock area. Despite this, neighborhoods like Headingley maintain their independent character, offering boutique shops, charity stores, dining options, and the Cottage Road Cinema, which holds the title of the city’s oldest continuously operating cinema. Cultural venues like the Old Red Bus Station, known for its electronic music scene, and Hyde Park Picture House, along with trendy bars and innovative restaurants, showcase Leeds’ unique and vibrant atmosphere, often overlooked despite being easily accessible.
Culture
In addition to prominent establishments like the Royal Armouries and Leeds Art Gallery, Leeds boasts a variety of alternative cultural venues. A leisurely 30-minute stroll from the city center will lead you to Hyde Park Book Club, a former petrol station repurposed into a vibrant creative space that highlights artists, musicians, and writers. Featuring a basement and outdoor area, a bar, and a bookshop with a special section dedicated to Yorkshire writers, this spot offers an ideal setting to immerse yourself in the city’s creative vibes.
For a blend of culture and shopping, consider visiting Leeds Corn Exchange in the city center, a Grade I-listed landmark dating back to 1863. Renowned for its architecture, the building also houses a variety of independent retailers such as Indie Makers, Colours May Vary, and Chinese Laundry. Alongside these shops are craft stores, eateries, and collectible outlets. The Corn Exchange regularly hosts record fairs, art exhibitions, and festivals, adding to its vibrant atmosphere.
A short bus ride of less than 10 minutes west of the city center, in Armley, you’ll find Assembly House. This artist-led community arts organization offers studios, exhibition spaces, and galleries. Serving as a platform for both established and emerging artists, Assembly House’s calendar includes exhibitions, performances, and film screenings.
Nightlife
Leeds, with its 200,000 students, offers an exceptional nightlife. The Freedom Quarter boasts LGBTQ+ clubs, while music venues range from cozy spots for local talent to the grand First Direct Arena. The Wardrobe is a top choice for indie bands, featuring a dark, intimate basement for gigs.
Smokestack is a famed speakeasy-style bar known for its funk, jazz, and soul music, along with southern-style cocktails. Sela Bar also offers jazz and funk gigs, often with free or pay-as-you-feel entry.
A night in Leeds isn’t complete without a stop at Belgrave Music Hall. This 1930s venue hosts live gigs, comedy, film screenings, and art across three floors. Indulge in pizza from the Dough Boys, relax in cozy areas, and enjoy a rooftop terrace with city views.
Food
Leeds boldly claims the title of “foodie capital of the north,” and rightly so. Despite its size, the city boasts a remarkable array of independent coffee shops, bakeries, and restaurants. Its proximity to the Yorkshire Dales and the east coast ensures a spotlight on local produce.
A visit in May is especially rewarding, coinciding with the North Leeds Food Festival at Roundhay Park, one of Europe’s largest city parks. This two-day event showcases street-food vendors from across the UK, artisan markets, live music, chef demonstrations, interactive tasting sessions, and family entertainment.
When the festival isn’t happening, Leeds Kirkgate Market is a great spot for street food. Its food hall offers a variety of global cuisine, such as Turkish grilled fish at Mr Mackerel, Caribbean dishes at Jenny’s Jerk Chicken, and traditional fish and chips from the Fisherman’s Wife, sourced directly from the North Yorkshire coast. For a unique twist, try the Yorkshire Wrap Company’s take on the classic Sunday roast, featuring a Yorkshire pudding wrap with all the trimmings.
Drink
In the city, you’ll discover a range of establishments, from classic pubs to trendy indie bars. Call Lane, situated in a former industrial area near the River Aire, is home to some of Leeds’ finest bars. You can explore a variety of options, from sampling over 50 types of tequila at Neon Cactus to enjoying refined cocktails at the Maven.
Duck & Drake, an old-school pub in Kirkgate, boasts original Victorian features like marble doorway jambs, globe light fittings, and bare floorboards. Renowned for its wide array of local cask ales and live music (pints from £4), it’s a popular spot. Nearby, Doghouse Bar & Bagel Shop offers a laid-back setting where you can relax in leather armchairs amidst retro artwork while enjoying a pale ale. They also serve lagers, cask ales, cocktails, wines, and a variety of bagels (bagels and pints from £5.50).
Nestled in the city center, Below Stairs is easily overlooked despite its discreet sign. This upscale bar in a Grade II-listed building specializes in experimental cocktails. Its menu is divided into sections such as sugar, salt, acid, and fat, featuring unique ingredients like Japanese Togarashi spice blend and sea foam. A standout is the Corn & Silk made with Jack Daniels Old No 7, Mellow Corn, Cereal Milk, BS Cornsilk and Meadowsweet Liqueur, Grand Josiene, and Oat Creme Fraiché (cocktails from £9.95).
Neighbourhood
A 15-minute bus ride from the city center takes you to Chapel Allerton, a vibrant, village-like neighborhood. Creativity thrives here, with the annual Chapel Allerton arts festival celebrating its 26th year this September. Even outside of the festival, Seven is a must-visit, offering an independent arts space showcasing film, theater, comedy, and dance.
Explore the Little Bookshop and its diverse selection among other independent shops. Chirpy, a lifestyle design store, hosts various workshops and events. Oakwood Vintage boasts a curated furniture collection. George & Joseph is an artisan cheese shop with a selection of Yorkshire and British cheeses. Wayward Wines offers natural and organic wines from small producers, and Caspar’s Bottle Shop sells craft beer.
For dining, Hern is a bistro highlighting seasonal produce, serving dishes like crispy chicken terrine with chili and blue cheese, followed by rhubarb pavlova with lemon thyme baked cream. Crust & Crumb offers comfort food and brunch favorites, along with wraps, soups, and homemade treats.
Stay
Quebecs Hotel, located in the financial and legal quarter just a two-minute walk from Leeds train station, exudes the charm of a French chateau. Each of the 44 bedrooms in this Grade II-listed 19th-century building has been uniquely designed with classic elements. The hotel features a cosy Gallery with stained-glass windows and a Conservatory offering rooftop views. Rates start at £129 per night for room-only.
Adjacent to Leeds railway station, the majestic Queens Hotel was constructed for the former London, Midland & Scottish Railway. Combining art deco elegance with contemporary comforts, the spacious and refined rooms provide a luxurious stay. The hotel includes a bar and restaurant, and is conveniently only a three-minute walk from the Trinity Leeds shopping center and city center dining options. Double rooms start from £94.50 per night for room-only.
