Austrian Tirol A summer wonderland of breathtaking vistas, exquisite cuisine, and thrilling trails
A serene wooden swimming jetty extends into a lake adorned in vibrant emerald hues. In the distance, white-sailed dinghies gracefully glide across the water, propelled by a gentle mountain breeze. Welcome to Achensee, the largest lake in the Austrian Tirol. If you endured the scorching heatwave of last summer on a crowded and sticky British beach or witnessed the sky turn crimson above the Mediterranean as temperatures soared above 40 degrees Celsius, it is highly likely that you found yourself daydreaming about a picturesque setting precisely like this.
While the temptation to leap from the jetty into the glacial lake is strong, the frigid temperature dissuades us. Instead, we opt for the more inviting waters of the rooftop infinity pool at Atoll Achensee. This stunning leisure complex, situated by the lake, exudes an air of exclusivity reminiscent of a spa retreat. With its elegant white curves and breathtaking mountain panoramas, it captivates the senses. Surprisingly, you can indulge in half a day of relaxation here, moving between the indoor and outdoor pools, whirlpools, saunas, and sun terraces, all for just a few euros more than what you would typically spend on a swim at a local public pool. And that’s not the only delightful surprise. The Tirol experiences low season during the summer, resulting in many hotels, including the sophisticated yet cozy Sonnenhof in Pertisau where we are staying, offering enticing half-board packages at great value.
The following morning, we embark on a scenic drive to reach the Gramai Alm, a charming guesthouse serving as a perfect starting point for exploring the majestic limestone peaks of the Karwendel mountains. Both on foot and by mountain bike, visitors can delve into the natural wonders of the region. Opting for a leisurely circular hike, we are treated to views of a cascading waterfall and captivating glimpses of the lake below. At the Alm’s sun-kissed terrace, we savor the flavors of käsespätzle, a delectable Tirolean noodle dish smothered in melted cheese and fried onions. In a state of pure bliss, we retire to a nearby hammock for a siesta, serenaded by the melodic tinkling of cowbells in the surrounding pasture. It is undeniably challenging to bid farewell to this idyllic spot, but with a heavy heart and a reluctant goodbye to the resident goats, we descend the mountain and embark on a 45-minute drive to our next destination.
Nestled high in the Kitzbühel Alps, Wildschönau unveils a serene valley adorned with verdant rolling pastures. The landscape is adorned with picturesque farmhouses boasting vibrant wooden balconies adorned with cascades of red and pink geraniums. As we arrive at the warm and welcoming Hotel Wastlhof in Niederau and settle in, it takes mere minutes before we find ourselves whisked away in a cable car to the summit of Markbachjoch mountain. From there, we embark on a short yet awe-inspiring hike leading to a small chapel that offers an expansive panoramic view. To enhance our experience, all hotel guests in the valley receive a Wildschönau card, providing complimentary or discounted entry to local attractions, as well as access to an extensive network of cable cars, lifts, and buses. This convenience ensures that even mountain novices and families can revel in breathtaking scenery with ease.
The following morning, we board the delightfully named Bummelzug road-train from Oberau, which leisurely chugs along through enchanting forests and meadows, carrying us to the Kundler Klamm. This steep limestone gorge boasts one of the most rewarding and accessible hikes in the area, following the meandering path of the Wildschönau river as it carves its way through the canyon. The train returns us to Oberau, just in time for a late lunch at the Thalmuehle, a charming inn adorned with vibrant flowers, exuding authentic Tirolean charm. There, we indulge in a delicious brezenzuppe (pretzel and cheese soup), savoring the flavors amidst a captivating ambiance.
Wildschönau, renowned for its dairy-farming heritage, presents us with a delightful highlight during our week-long stay: a visit to the Schönanger Alm dairy. There, we are warmly welcomed by master cheesemaker Johann Schönauer, who takes us on an engaging tour and treats us to a tasting of his meticulously crafted tilsiter and emmental cheeses. These cheeses hold great significance, as they are being prepared for entry into the esteemed Mountain Cheese Olympics. The dedication and passion for cheese production are palpable in this region. As the last visitors of the day, we are also privileged to enjoy a sip of Krautinger, a robust schnapps exclusively produced in the local villages using white turnips.
On our final day, we ascend the Schatzberg mountain via cable car to attend a Tirolean music festival. As we arrive, it becomes evident that we unintentionally missed the memo to dress in attire resembling the von Trapp family. Amidst an idyllic Alpine meadow, a lively brass band fills the air with traditional Austrian folk tunes, while couples adorned in lederhosen and dirndls gracefully partake in elaborate set dances. Waitresses gracefully balance trays laden with generous servings of beer, delighting the onlookers who sway to the music, sing along, and gather around wooden picnic benches. The atmosphere is brimming with infectious joy and merriment. The woman next to me insists that I join the queue for schmalznudel, exquisitely light doughnuts served with cranberries. She assures me, “Once you try schmalznudel, you will be drawn back to Wildschönau.” Obediently, I join the queue, eagerly embracing this culinary delight
