Agricultural exhibitions are a quintessential feature of the British summer, merging farming heritage with village festivities to evoke a delightful sense of eccentricity and joy.
Several years ago, I was tasked with evaluating homemade wines at a local agricultural show. Having composed under intense World Cup deadlines and addressed an audience in Lord’s Long Room, I was surprised by the pressure and unease this judging duty brought about. I was well aware of the earnestness surrounding such competitions and the strong emotions they stir. I even had nightmares involving siphoning tubes as potential strangulation devices. Fortunately, my co-judge was more experienced and composed. She held the old-fashioned belief that tasting wines and spitting them into a bucket after swirling was rather uncultured. Following her lead, I opted to taste a small glass of each entry. There were over 20 participants, and within half an hour, my apprehensions had transformed into a hazy sense of summer contentment.
Of course, this was before the pandemic emerged. Nowadays, adopting a similar approach to judging homemade wines would likely result in a hospital visit due to the sheer volume and diversity of entries. During lockdown, people across the nation filled their time revisiting traditional crafts, including baking, brewing, and winemaking. Consequently, the submissions for the industrial tent at agricultural shows (initially intended to exhibit the work of rural artisans, but now encompassing everything from baking and children’s art to knitting, jam-making, and photography) have skyrocketed. With its intricate regulations and unflinching honesty, it’s a realm reserved for the resolute. During an event in North Yorkshire, I witnessed a bread entry in the competition being dismissed with a handwritten declaration: “This is not a loaf!!!” Each exclamation mark felt like a piercing blow. A friend who submitted chive-infused cheese scones to a County Durham show still shudders at the memory of the response.
Held across the nation, spanning both urban centers and remote rural settings, these county shows stand out as cherished highlights of the Great British summer. While rooted in agriculture, these events infuse the spirit of the village fete, resulting in a wonderfully idiosyncratic jubilation. Notably, their popularity is on a constant rise, particularly since the relaxation of anti-Covid measures.
This year, records were shattered at renowned events: the Great Yorkshire Show achieved its highest-ever ticket sales in its 185-year history, the Royal Highland Show broke its attendance record, and the Northumberland County Show witnessed a remarkable 25% increase in admissions compared to pre-lockdown figures. A heightened interest in local ecosystems and food production, coupled with the escalating cost of living, has nudged individuals toward seeking affordable enjoyment closer to home. It’s important to note that many of these shows operate as registered charities and are manned by volunteers.
The heart of the action remains the industrial tent, an unmissable experience. Here, you’ll encounter the surreal juxtaposition of events ranging from fruit scone competitions to contests where children create animals out of vegetables (expect cucumber crocodiles galore). As a friend once aptly put it after joyfully exploring the “garden-on-a-plate” exhibits for half an hour, “Why venture to Papua New Guinea or the Amazon to witness the exotic and the bizarre when it’s right here on your doorstep?”
Moreover, you’re likely to encounter stalls vending an array of goods ranging from cakes, plants, and whimsical doormats to fishing-fly artwork and hand-painted salt dough sheep. Tents managed by societies like the Country Land and Business Association and the Game & Wildlife Conservation Trust will be present, alongside trade stands showcasing companies specializing in dairy hygiene. Eventually, you’ll come upon the livestock, a historically central component of any show.
Around the mid-18th century, Britain was confronted with a population surge attributed in part to the Industrial Revolution, which brought the country perilously close to famine. Just as manufacturing had rapidly transformed, British agriculture needed to evolve. Spearheaded by forward-thinking farmers like Thomas Coke, Lord Townsend, and Robert Bakewell, a new breed of agricultural pioneers emerged. They established county agricultural societies that advocated novel scientific methods for livestock breeding and crop management. However, their efforts went largely unnoticed.
At some point, possibly conceived by Coke, the concept of the agricultural show emerged. These shows were designed to showcase and elucidate the progress achieved, demonstrating the superiority of new methodologies. To incentivize commendable practices, prizes were conferred upon the finest stock and produce. These events were both enlightening and forward-looking, driven by a sense of purpose and gravity. For entertainment, the circus offered a suitable alternative.
Most sizeable shows boast an impressive display of thousands of animals, exhibited in a multitude of forms. Interestingly, Britain is home to more types of farm animals than any other nation.
Amid the enclosures housing sheep, farmers lean against the fences, engrossed in observation, casual scratching, and conversations. The atmosphere resonates with their discussions, intermingling with the hum of electric clippers utilized in the shearing competitions, as well as the apprehensive, throaty warbling of the sheep. The latter sound seems to fall somewhere between the tones of Edith Piaf’s voice and the murmurs of a baby monitor.
At most prominent county shows, a contest for honors unfolds, drawing in nearly 30 distinct breeds of sheep. Among them, you’ll find the stately grey Herdwicks, whose survival owes much to Beatrix Potter’s efforts to preserve the breed. Also present are the robust Ryelands, recognized for their substantial wool quality, once so esteemed that it was affectionately dubbed “Leominster Ore.”
