The Paris Metro’s grand expansion embraces beauty and theatricality alongside existing swagger
Paris Métro exemplifies minimalism in most stations, featuring white subterranean vaults and artistic entrances by Hector Guimard. Theatricality and swagger, a symbol of engineer’s high status, coexist with flamboyance in the Eiffel Tower and Pompidou Centre, traits that will be evident in the Grand Paris Express scheme, doubling Métro mileage by 2030. Here are some existing network examples.
Line 4 includes Cite station
Building railway bridges in the heart of Paris was not an option for Line 4, so the line had to pass under the river using waterproofed tanks known as caissons. Saint-Michel and Cité stations consist of three caissons: vertical ones at each end for access and a lateral one for the platforms. At Cité station, the lateral caisson creates a peculiar, distorted version of the traditional Métro vault, illuminated by vintage-looking white globes.
One of the vertical caissons is eerily unused, while the other resembles a large riveted metal bucket with rusty water trickling down its sides. Primitive staircases ascend in an Escher-like crisscrossing manner towards the ticket hall. Though there is a lift, many passengers prefer to climb the stairs, with the clanging of shoes and boots echoing, as Parisians are accustomed to stair climbing, given that numerous live in tall, old buildings.
A short distance away, Ha Noi 1988 offers Vietnamese cuisine in a flower-adorned space with a terrace providing views of the Seine (or at least the tops of the plane trees along its banks). The Pho du Chef comes highly recommended.
Arts et Métiers station is part of Line 11
The epitome of Metro panache can be experienced at Arts et Métiers station on Line 11, which stands out as the most immersive among approximately 20 themed or “cultural” stations. The vault of this station is adorned with riveted copper panels, and portholes display floating models of machines, creating a dreamlike atmosphere akin to being inside Captain Nemo’s submarine, exploring the deep sea. The unique design, perhaps seen as an inexplicable mirage by many tourists, was crafted in 1994 to commemorate the bicentenary of the museum served by the station.
Close by, there is a museum of technology that rivals an art gallery in terms of aesthetics. Within the steam engine section, keep an eye out for the burnished narrow-gauge tramlines on the wooden floor, once utilized to transport heavy exhibits.
Mirabeau station is part of Line 10
One of the striking features of the Métro is the use of track loops that serve multiple stations, providing an intensive service to specific areas. A notable example can be found at the eastern end of Line 10, where the loop begins at Mirabeau station. At Mirabeau, passengers can only board trains that are coming off the loop and heading back towards the city center. However, they also have the opportunity to observe trains arriving from town and heading onto the loop, climbing as they emerge from beneath the river. The view from the single platform reveals the track directly ahead, where a train will eventually arrive to take passengers off the loop. Beyond that, there’s a track on a steep ramp. Trains heading for the loop accelerate up this ramp with impressive speed, paying no attention to the station. Due to the tilt of the trains, sparks can be seen fizzing about their undersides like fireflies.
Within a 10-minute walk from Mirabeau, you’ll find rue Jean de la Fontaine, adorned with captivating art nouveau apartment blocks. Notable buildings include numbers 14, 17, 9, 21, and 60, designed by Hector Guimard. Among his masterpieces is number 14, Castel Béranger, which earned him the opportunity to work on the Métro project. The iron front gate of Castel Béranger is a mesmerizing display of whiplash curves, and it’s easy to imagine Guimard’s Métro creations oozing out of this building, ready to leave a lasting impression on Paris.
Gare d’Austerlitz is a station situated on Line 5 of the Métro
The most dramatic moment on Line 5, and possibly throughout the entire Metro system, is the river crossing between Gare d’Austerlitz on the Left Bank and Quai de la Rapée on the Right. After passing Saint-Marcel, the trains emerge from underground and enter the attic of the Gare d’Austerlitz mainline station, which also houses the Métro station of the same name. From there, they exit through another skylight and traverse the river on the graceful, single-span Viaduc d’Austerlitz.
As the trains descend towards Quai de la Rapée station, they take a curvaceous path around the Paris morgue, discreetly known as the Institut Medico-Legal, which subtly blends into the riverbank. This exhilarating downhill section is affectionately dubbed “the toboggan,” and after experiencing it once, you might be tempted to return to Gare d’Austerlitz just to ride it again.
Nearby, the Jardin des Plantes offers sprawling gardens (free to visit) and historically significant hothouses (with admission charges). The gardens exude an old-world charm that might make you wish visitors were dressed in white linen suits or twirling parasols.
Bir-Hakeim station is part of Line 6
Line 6 emerges from a tunnel on the Right Bank at Passy, treating passengers to a breathtaking series of elevated stations, starting with the stunning river crossing on Pont de Bir-Hakeim. From here, passengers are rewarded with captivating views of the adjacent Eiffel Tower. When arriving at Bir-Hakeim station, it’s worth taking a moment to appreciate the magnificent bridge just crossed. The bridge’s lower deck accommodates road and pedestrian walkways, while the upper deck carries the Metro, supported by majestic stanchions resembling an avenue of iron trees. At night, with the lanterns hanging from the stanchions lit, the scene transforms into an enchanting forest-like spectacle.
Close by, Comptoir Principal offers saucisson and pomme puree, among other delectable dishes, at prices below the norm for this upscale neighborhood. Situated on a corner, the restaurant’s terrace table offers patrons splendid views of the Eiffel Tower on one side and Line 6 trains gracefully rolling over their ornate viaduct on the other
Gare de Lyon is one of the stations on Line 14
Line 14, inaugurated in 1998, stands as the showpiece of the existing Métro network, boasting stations reminiscent of sets from a science fiction film, and notably designed to be spacious and future-proofed. When descending the sparkling escalator at Gare de Lyon station, you encounter a stern concrete hall ahead, while to the right, shielded by a glass screen, lies a sizable “tropical garden” allegedly watered by regular automated “thunderstorms.” Although I’ve yet to witness one of these simulated storms, I assume seasoned Line 14 commuters have grown accustomed to them.
Not far away, the Train Bleu, accessed via a grand staircase from the Gare de Lyon concourse, showcases a gilded interior adorned with frescoes depicting scenes from the sun-soaked Riviera. It is undoubtedly one of the most opulent station buffets in the world, and possibly the most expensive as well. However, beyond the main “gold room,” there’s a cozy bar designed to resemble a railway carriage, where a glass of wine won’t cost quite as much as you might anticipate.
