Leisurely journey through canals, rivers, and roads, exploring stunning wetlands, historic towns, and delectable cuisine
A decade ago, while exploring Mantua in Lombardy, I encountered a group of cyclists preparing for a “bike and barge” adventure to Venice. It seemed like the ideal way to traverse the peaceful backroads of the lesser-known Polesine region, surrounding the Po River and extending towards the Adriatic. Now, I find myself joining the trip, albeit in the opposite direction, as I step onto the Ave Maria, docked behind the iconic Redentore church on Giudecca Island—a location crafted by Palladio. This 42-meter transport vessel, once marred by rust, was rescued from oblivion by local tour operator Girolibero and transformed into a luxurious floating hotel, boasting 17 comfortable cabins.
In the company of 32 fellow passengers, hailing from diverse backgrounds such as Britain, Berlin, the United States, Canada, and New Zealand, our group embodies a cosmopolitan spirit. Ranging from a teenage student to spirited retirees, they possess extensive cycling experience—a contrast to my own. However, our tour leader, Hein Hoefnagels, a remarkably fit 74-year-old Dutchman, assures me that “this is a holiday, not a race.” We will leisurely traverse a distance of 15 to 35 miles per day over the course of eight days, allowing ample time for various stopovers, including the charming fishing port of Chioggia and the ancient town of Adria. With predominantly flat roads ahead, we also have the option of opting for an electric bike instead of a traditional touring bicycle
As we indulge in breakfast, the boat embarks from Giudecca at 8 am, gently traversing the lagoon towards the northern edge of the Lido. This area is renowned for its magnificent art deco villas and expansive sandy beaches. The enthusiastic cyclists among us don vibrant fluorescent spandex outfits, with some equipped with their own cycling shoes and personalized pedals. In contrast, individuals like myself opt for a more casual attire of T-shirts and shorts
As more than 30 cyclists embark along the narrow promenade of the Lido, a sense of apprehension lingers, fearing the potential chaos of a Tour de France-like collision. However, the two guides positioned at the front and rear ensure that safety remains the top priority. The route follows the breathtaking Murazzi sea wall, proceeds to a ferry that transports us to the fisherman’s haven of Pellestrina Island, and concludes amidst the untamed dunes of the Ca’Roman nature reserve. Enthusiastic birdwatchers venture on a hike led by the junior guide, Irene Badone, a passionate ornithologist. Meanwhile, stragglers like myself rejoin the Ave Maria, where a delightful high tea awaits. This is one of the trip’s numerous genuine sustainable initiatives, where delicate salami and salad tramezzini sandwiches, cookies, and fruit smoothies are ingeniously repurposed from breakfast leftovers.
Dinner presents a delectable feast featuring thick bigoli spaghetti adorned with mackerel and wild fennel sauce, followed by roasted sea bream encased in a crispy crust of potatoes and almonds. The day reaches its pinnacle as the sun dramatically sets over the glistening waters. With the majority of us retiring early, the comfortable cabins, comprising a mix of doubles and a few bunks, all equipped with en-suite facilities and most offering splendid water views through portholes, beckon us to a restful slumber
Every evening, following dinner, Hein engages us in a detailed discussion about the upcoming day’s plans, shedding light on historical, social, and environmental aspects, in addition to the customary sightseeing. In Venice, he adeptly explains the challenges posed by the acqua alta floods and the role of the Mose dam in mitigating them. As we approach the Po delta, he delves into the impact of climate change on the region. From the devastating floods of 1951 to the current freshwater scarcity, Hein highlights how this has led to a “saline tongue” intrusion, where sea water encroaches upon the freshwater wetlands. Consequently, local farmers face difficulties in irrigating their crops with the increasingly saline water, and the changing biodiversity poses a threat to the traditional breeding grounds of clams and mussels.
Each day unfolds with a unique array of surprises. Following our exploration of Venice, our urban destinations encompass Chioggia, renowned for its canals and vibrant fish market, Ferrara, boasting captivating UNESCO World Heritage architecture, and Mantua, home to picturesque lakes and palaces. However, it is the unexpected gems that truly captivate us. Riding along a narrow path surrounded by the tranquil waters of the Po Delta Nature Reserve, we witness a flock of elegant pink flamingos and encounter ancient “casone” cottages belonging to wetland fishermen. A visit to a dairy producing grana padano cheese, a local variation of Parmesan, proves to be a favorite for everyone. Moreover, the remarkable Museo della Giostra in the serene village of Bergantino catches us off guard. Despite its unassuming location, this museum has been the birthplace of fairground rides for amusement parks worldwide for over a century, and its exhibits are nothing short of enchanting.
The organizers, true to their Girolibero name, go above and beyond to cater to different preferences. Participants have the choice to ride alongside the group and tour leader or opt for independent cycling using the provided free app. Need a day of rest? Simply remain aboard the boat as it gracefully maneuvers through canals and locks. During city stops, guests can either join guided tours or venture out to explore on their own. They have the freedom to dine at roadside trattorias or create a packed lunch from the buffet breakfast. This well-balanced approach offers both comfort and independence, making it an excellent fit for less adventurous cyclists who value a cozy bed and delectable cuisine.
Girolibero also offers a similar bike and barge experience in France, traversing the Camargue region to Avignon. As the time comes to pack their bags and disembark, many in the group are already contemplating this as their holiday destination for the following year.
The trip was organized by Girolibero. The eight-day/seven-night tour (from Venice to Mantua or vice versa) starts at €1,030 per person in a twin cabin, covering breakfast, dinner, packed lunches, visits, and walking tours. Renting a Girolibero touring bike costs €100, while an e-bike is available for €250.
