France boasts stunning paddling routes: turquoise seas, tranquil canals, and glacial lakes
Coast hugging, Bonifacio, Corsica
During my initial visit to Corsica, I trekked along the Corsican mountains’ spine, rarely catching sight of the sea except for occasional bird’s-eye views. This time, as I followed the coastline, weaving in and out of sea caves, I felt as if I were navigating Corsica’s arteries. The journey commences from Piantarella, just east of Bonifacio on the island’s southern tip. It begins in a sheltered lagoon, a tranquil oasis before venturing into the open sea, surrounded by the northernmost islets of the seabird-populated Lavezzi Islands. Progressing westward along the coast reveals soaring cliffs and a coastline so ruggedly fragmented it appears as though it was smashed with a sledgehammer. Culminating just before Bonifacio is the remarkable Grotte de Saint-Antoine cave, featuring an almost perfectly circular opening in the roof and a small strip of sand resembling shortbread at its rear. Allocate at least half a day: this route covers nearly nine miles round trip.
The calanques of Cassis, Côte d’Azur
A circular route starting from Cassis on the Côte d’Azur showcases some of the most picturesque scenery I’ve ever encountered while paddling. The Calanques National Park, located just east of Marseille, spans a 12-mile expanse of limestone cliffs interspersed with steep, rocky coves where the turquoise waters shimmer as if they were from a glacier rather than the Mediterranean. The area is rightfully popular, to the extent that tourist numbers on the hiking trails around the calanques have been limited. However, arriving by sea allows you to discover a tranquil inlet all to yourself. Cave-like formations punctuate the cliffs, resembling warrens crafted by burrowing animals. Above, climbers tackle steep climbs on limestone formed over millions of years from compressed fish bones and shells.
The Best Western in Cassis offers great value and an unbeatable location, just a two-minute walk from the sea, with rates starting at €90. High-speed trains connect Paris to Marseille, a 40-minute drive or a 20-minute train ride from Cassis.
Alpine paddling, Annecy, Haute-Savoie
Annecy, located 26 miles south of Geneva, boasts France’s inaugural paddleboard club for good reason: its lake is perfect for paddleboarding and kayaking. Being Europe’s cleanest lake, it’s ideal for beginners, as the worry of falling in is minimized—particularly during the summer months. In January, it hosts the world’s chilliest paddleboard race, the GlaGla Race, covering distances of either four or 8½ miles over water that is barely above freezing. Participants often don fancy dress for this icy challenge, reminiscent of a game of “the floor is lava”. For a more temperate paddle on Lake Annecy, when the mountains are lush and paragliders dot the skies, I suggest starting from Doussard at the lake’s southern tip, where it’s much quieter.
The Hôtel Allobroges offers a hearty breakfast buffet, with room rates starting at €80 for room only or €92 with breakfast included. Annecy is well-connected by buses and trains from Geneva or Paris.
The market gardens of Amiens, Hauts-de-France
The town of Amiens is renowned for its hortillonnages, a collection of small, cultivated islets that once served as market gardens, providing the town with fresh produce. Today, the hortillonnages boast waterside displays that could rival the Chelsea Flower Show. This paddle follows a meandering loop with numerous twists and turns, commencing from the Amiens suburb of Rivery. Navigating through the hortillonnages, you’ll encounter muddy rivers, narrow streams barely wider than a paddle, and expansive ponds. Each bend in the waterway feels like a new discovery, as you push through the draping fronds of weeping willows to uncover charming sights such as brightly painted flowerpot men in someone’s garden or a curious sheep peering out through the foliage. Along the way, there are plenty of restaurants to enjoy, and Ôjardin, situated right on the water, offers punt-style rowing boat rentals. As you paddle towards the River Somme, the waterways gradually widen, and the spire of France’s largest cathedral, Notre-Dame d’Amiens, becomes clearly visible on the horizon.
The family-run guesthouse Une Maison en Ville offers accommodation in a 19th-century townhouse. Amiens is approximately 1 hour and 20 minutes by train from both Lille and Paris.
Go with the flow in Lyon
Lyon, despite being landlocked, offers fantastic paddling opportunities. The city is situated at the confluence of two rivers, the Rhône and the Saône. While the Rhône is one of France’s largest rivers and is more frequented by boat traffic, I prefer paddling on the Saône due to the numerous dams on the Rhône. The area just north of Lyon’s city centre, between Rochetaillée-sur-Saône and Île Barbe, an island with a Benedictine abbey dating back to the fifth century, is particularly enjoyable for paddling. After your paddle, you can visit the peniche (barge) bars and restaurants along the Rhône for a relaxing drink.
Villa 216 offers two guest rooms in a manor house dating back to 1890. High-speed TGV trains from Paris Gare de Lyon take under two hours to reach Lyon.
To the lighthouse, Plouguerneau, Brittany
Brittany’s rugged landscape and strong Celtic identity resonate with me, reminding me of Cornwall, my homeland. The weather here changes every five minutes, which can be frustrating; just as you’ve dried off, it starts pouring again. Along the exposed northwest coast, the sea is tumultuous, with waves crashing against black rocks that resemble frostbitten knuckles, contrasting with the sandy beaches. A five-mile loop paddle starting from Lilia, in the commune of Plouguerneau, leads to Île Vierge and the tallest lighthouse in Europe. Its opaline interior, resembling marble from a design magazine, is actually made from sheep’s bones left by the island’s former residents, a group of monks who once tried, unsuccessfully, to maintain a flock here. When the sea is calm, this paddle is suitable even for beginners.
Norzh Ecogîte, a wooden lodge blending with its coastal surroundings, offers accommodations starting at €65. Plouguerneau is a 50-minute drive from the ferry terminal at Roscoff.
