“Glowing lights, shared feasts, and beer delivered by horse-drawn wagons spread holiday joy in the Danish capital.”
In December, being in Copenhagen unfolds a truly exhilarating Christmas experience. The air carries the rich aroma of caramelized almonds, neatly packaged in red and white striped paper bags. Along the harborside at Nyhavn, stalls offer glögg, mulled wine adorned with almonds and raisins. Notably, Julebryg, Tuborg’s Christmas beer, arrives at bars throughout Copenhagen via horse-drawn wagons.
Danes flock to the iconic Tivoli (tivoli.dk), an amusement park established in 1834, during this festive season. The meticulously designed gardens feature giant pirate ships, a Chinese pagoda, and over a million radiant lamps. Queen Margrethe of Denmark personally designs costumes for the ballet performances held at Tivoli during Christmas, with this year’s rendition being “The Snow Queen,” inspired by Hans Christian Andersen’s fable.
Tivoli not only houses one of the world’s oldest rollercoasters, the renowned wooden Rutschebanen (built in 1914), but also hosts some of Copenhagen’s finest restaurants. Among them is Brdr Price, dedicated to classic Scandinavian cuisine during winter, offering dishes like cod enveloped in butter and cream, and duck with red cabbage. For those seeking an indulgent experience, Copenhagen’s most luxurious boutique hotel, the Nimb, is situated within one of Tivoli’s fantastical structures.
During the Christmas season at Tivoli, the air is filled with the fragrance of authentic fir cones, mingling with the enticing aromas of glögg and apple pancakes. Within a branch of Illums Bolighus, Copenhagen’s most exclusive department store, one can discover some of the planet’s most tasteful festive ornaments, alongside essential elements of Danish design. Candles, predominantly in white and found in various shapes, abound, as Danes have a penchant for illuminating more candles than any other nation on earth.
While Scandinavia may not be synonymous with budget-friendly getaways, Copenhagen’s residents have devised ingenious ways to counter the rising costs of living, embracing the concept of fællesspisning – communal dining. Set-price meals, where participants gather at long tables to dine simultaneously, have become a trend in Copenhagen.
Folkehuset Absalon (absaloncph.dk) in Vesterbro stands out as the most renowned venue for this communal dining experience. What was once a Lutheran church has transformed into a community hub featuring a restaurant, yoga studio, pottery classes, and lighthearted activities such as darts, conceived as a social project by Lennart Lajboschitz, the founder of Tiger. Many sessions are conducted in English, reflecting the sensible approach in Scandinavia, and Absalon’s evening meals are delightfully uncomplicated and affordable. While tickets can be booked online, those seeking a spot can also try their luck by arriving at 5 pm. For a festive touch, Christmas parties are hosted on Fridays and Saturdays, complete with songs and traditional cuisine, including the delectable rice pudding – all for 350 kroner (£40).
This philosophy is extending its reach to hotels as well. In 2020, Kanalhuset (kanalhusetcph.com) made its debut in Christianshavn, one of central Copenhagen’s oldest and most picturesque neighborhoods. This 18th-century, buttery-yellow building, another brainchild of Lennart Lajboschitz, formerly served as an orphanage and hospital. Today, it houses 12 hotel rooms and an additional 14 apartments with kitchens available for extended stays. The rates are notably reasonable, particularly by Scandinavian standards, featuring a 7 pm evening meal priced at 150 kroner (£18), where everyone comes together to dine. During this time of the month, it transforms into a festive feast, combining tradition, tealights, and communal spirit in equal measure. This is why, at this juncture, I will always raise a glass of festive beer to the Scandinavian approach to celebrating Christmas.
The festive season in the Norwegian capital commenced on November 24 with a musical ceremony, carols, and libations signifying the dispatch of a tree from a forest on the outskirts of Oslo to London’s Trafalgar Square. The celebrations predominantly unfold in outdoor settings. The market at Spikersuppa features a complimentary ice rink for gliding around. For those on a gift-hunting expedition, Oslos Supermarked (oslossupermarked.com) at the Salt arts complex by the harbor offers the opportunity to search for handmade or second-hand presents, coupled with an authentic Nordic sauna experience. Given Oslo’s likelihood of receiving snow in December, tobogganing becomes an integral part of the Christmas buildup. The premier toboggan run stretches between Frognerseteren and Midtstuen metro stations, with sleds available for rent.
