Merchants 1688 in Lancaster boasts a historically rich setting, with ancient cellars dating back to the 17th century, now transformed into a pub. Despite the impressive food served by Chef Will Graham in this captivating space, there’s a peculiar issue. As a British restaurant critic, addressing this issue might sound snobbish, but it’s a part of the experience.
Behold: Amidst remarkable food, the venue exudes a pub-like atmosphere where details echo a casual pub setting with quirky traits. This ambiance extends from a jarring website, complete with odd messages and errors, to a bar area resembling a spot for basic fare like pints and paninis. Despite the musty scent and peculiar Venetian décor, the compelling menu, boasting enticing items like the rarebit crumpet topped with braised beef, drew me in.
They don’t just craft an enticing menu; their culinary execution truly shines. Among the starters priced at £9, a substantial portion of slow-braised beef arrives cloaked in a delicate tempura batter that yields to reveal tender, flavorful strands. Topped with freshly grated horseradish and surrounded by a rich pool of beef gravy, it hosts enoki mushrooms peeking through. Elevating the dish is a vibrant dollop of smooth, tangy gherkin ketchup that seamlessly intertwines with the savory flavors. Though multifaceted, the elements harmonize brilliantly. Moving away from beef-centric dishes, a robust salad stars roasted pumpkin, bitter chicory, pine nuts, and generous dollops of whipped blue cheese in a zesty cranberry dressing.
Among the main courses is their signature “72-hour” lamb hotpot, presented in a ceramic pot adorned with herb-flecked, crisped potato slices. Beneath the bronzed surface lies a luscious, dark lamb stew, a testament to meticulous preparation. Accompanied by tangy shredded pickled red cabbage, this £17 offering exudes immense value for its robust umami flavors.
The priciest item, at £26 and rightfully so, showcases some of the finest venison preparation I’ve savored in years. Three ample cuts of haunch, perfectly seared with a crimson center, are complemented by golden beetroot cylinders and a textured venison “sausage” crafted from a diverse range of offal bits. Elevating this dish is a remarkable meaty jus infused with elderberry sweetness and a hint of smokiness, creating a cohesive ensemble. I jestingly remarked to my companion, known for tolerating my enthusiastic remarks, that had I been a judge on “MasterChef: The Professionals,” I’d have hailed it as the debut of a prodigious talent.
The excellence doesn’t falter with dessert—an indulgence of spiced pumpkin mousse studded with candied pecans, alongside a maple and pecan financier boasting a delightful interplay of soft interior and sugared crunch on the surface. The kitchen’s baking prowess shines. These dessert marvels only slightly overshadow a palate-cleansing dome of iced peach parfait paired with raspberry sorbet.
But it’s not just about gherkin ketchup and smoked elderberry jus here. Their lunch menu spans from a dry-aged beef burger adorned with raclette and roast shallot mayo to classic offerings like fish and chips and a variety of sandwiches, including roast beef with watercress or Appleby cheddar with chutney. The establishment boasts 11 cask ales and craft beers, mostly sourced from local breweries, and a serviceable wine list. The efficient young front-of-house team expertly manages both beverage service and attentive table service, although the same level of expertise doesn’t seem reflected in the dining room. There’s a sense that the management underestimates the restaurant’s potential hidden within these arches.
For those seeking an exceptional dining experience, consider the £80 tasting menu on New Year’s Eve, despite the off-putting Towie clip art. You’ll be treated to a magnificent feast.
In other news, the latest Henderson’s Relish cookbook is out, offering an ideal Christmas gift for Sheffield locals or those connected to the Sheffield community. “Hendo’s vs The World” celebrates the unique dark condiment with recipes from renowned chefs like Atul Kochhar’s Mumbai lamb sloppy Joes, Rukmini Iyer’s loaded fries with masala chickpeas, and Irini Tzortzoglou’s aubergine baklava with Hendo’s syrup. Copies are available here.
I might have a bias, but if there’s a perfect way to spend an evening, it’s with dinner and a show. Let’s give a round of applause to Liverpool’s Royal Court, which genuinely prioritizes its dining experience. Recently unveiling its Christmas menu to accompany the Scouse Dick Whittington performances, the offerings feature a choice between chicken and plant-based Christmas dinners, the renowned Liverpudlian lamb stew Scouse, and a delightful Christmas pudding trifle for dessert. For more details and bookings, visit here.
In other news, the Mediterranean restaurant Cavo, located near London’s Tottenham Court Road, which I found entirely vacant during my review a few weeks after its April launch, has permanently closed its doors as of November. Additionally, Birch, the South Croydon hotel housing Vervain (reviewed in October), has also ceased operations. Its sister property, Birch in Cheshunt featuring two restaurants by Robin Gill, shut down just a week ago.
