Our expert in leisurely travel delves into a historic central European rail route, where rural trains maintain a pace reminiscent of the Habsburg era
In the 1970s, the classic rail route from Prague to Vienna, passing through southern Bohemia, lost its primary status. Nevertheless, today it remains one of the most captivating train journeys in central Europe. My partner and I, not inclined to hurry, made a deliberate choice earlier this month to traverse the entire Emperor Franz Joseph Railway aboard leisurely trains.
Sure, we could have opted for one of the swift Railjet services, which complete the Prague to Vienna journey via Brno in just over four hours. However, our desire was to traverse the less-traveled expanse of southern Bohemia, thus recreating a slow-travel experience reminiscent of the Habsburg era.
Travel back to 1873, and Vienna was hosting the World Fair while celebrating Emperor Franz Joseph’s 25-year reign. The newly inaugurated railway connecting Bohemia to the Austrian capital bore the monarch’s name, and it was the preferred route for travelers from Prague to Vienna, particularly those eager to attend the World Fair before it concluded on October 31, 1873. During that period, four daily trains traversed the entire length of the Franz Joseph Railway from Prague to Vienna.
On a bright early October day, we embark on a southern journey from Prague aboard a regional train headed for Tábor. This marks the initial leg of our cross-border expedition, involving multiple train transfers and an unexpected minibus ride. As we venture south, our route takes us through Prague’s suburban areas, passing freight yards and container depots, until we finally reach the open countryside just beyond Hostivař. Here, we encounter a series of meandering switchbacks, traversing ridges and briefly skimming the Sázava Valley at Čerčany. During the journey, we stumble upon a quaint mini-bistro tucked away in the rear carriage of the train, making Sunday lunch a delightful affair featuring Czech goulash soup and local beer.
Forests and lakes
Starting from Tábor, the Franz Joseph Railway traces the serene path of the Lužnice Valley as it meanders upstream into Austria. A considerable portion of the railway line is single-track, which naturally results in a leisurely pace. Electrification of the line extends no further than Veselí nad Lužnicí. At this point, we switch to a local train, a quaint duo of antiquated carriages drawn by a noisy diesel engine. With the windows down, we relish a tranquil Sunday afternoon journey through the rural landscapes of Bohemia. The scenery is irresistibly picturesque, and any aspirations of reaching Vienna by evening quickly wane.
Some of the most cherished memories are often born from unplanned journeys. As the train pauses beside a lake at Vikov, the idea of disembarking tempts us. However, the prospect of locating accommodations seems distant, so we decide to remain on the train. We glide past reedy marshlands adorned with abundant alder and willow trees, dilapidated barns entwined with overgrown weeds, majestic storks presiding over water meadows, and lakes framed by quaint wooden boathouses. Our next stop is at Trebon Lazne, where the station building boasts an elegant white colonnade. It appears promising, prompting us to seize the opportunity for an impromptu overnight stay.
A pleasant 10-minute stroll from the station leads us into the heart of Třeboň, an enchanting small town characterized by a picturesque square, complete with its own castle, and a serene park alongside a tranquil lake. Small-town Bohemia is renowned for hosting some of the most idyllic communities in Europe, and our spontaneous arrival in Třeboň proves to be a stroke of luck. In the October evening sunshine, as summer gracefully transitions into autumn, we revel in the appealing dining options offered by local restaurants, which prominently feature an abundance of carp and trout sourced from nearby lakes.
We’ve discovered that unplanned overnight stays are particularly rewarding when there is ample time for exploration. Arriving in Třeboň during the mid-afternoon and with no urgency to depart the next morning, we have the perfect opportunity to delve into the history of this small town. It plays a pivotal role in serving the surrounding rural region, boasting an aquaculture tradition that spans several centuries. The local economy is centered around the cultivation of freshwater fish.
On into Austria
The following day, we find ourselves once again on the station platform, signaling to halt the local train. Třeboň Lázně functions as a request stop. The train conductor verifies our Interrail passes and informs us that no trains will be running across the Austrian border today. “Not to worry,” he assures us. “There will be a bus in place.”
For many travelers, the mere mention of a rail replacement bus service can elicit apprehension. However, we take such changes in our stride. As we approach České Velenice, an announcement is made that the train will conclude its journey there, and all passengers must disembark. Inside the station building, the neatly attired station manager inquires whether we are heading to Austria and instructs us to wait by the roadside. It turns out that we are the sole passengers embarking on this cross-border adventure. An eight-minute ride in a white minibus transports us to Gmünd in Austria, where a double-decker train awaits us for the continuation of our journey to Vienna.
A more serene introduction to Austria couldn’t be asked for than the leisurely journey through the Waldviertel, the Woodland Quarter, from Gmünd to Vienna. This two-and-a-quarter-hour voyage is a slow-travel paradise, gently winding eastward through forested hilly terrain en route to the capital. Transitioning from the woodlands, we drift past vineyards, fields adorned with sunflowers and pumpkins. To the left, a captivating vista unfolds, featuring the picturesque walled town of Eggenburg, perched gracefully on a granite plateau. We then trace the Schmida Valley downward towards the Danube.
The crossing of the Danube at Tulln is nothing short of a theatrical spectacle, followed by a downstream journey along the river’s right bank towards Vienna. As we traverse communities that have historically maintained a cautious relationship with the formidable river due to recurrent flooding, certain structures stand on stilts to provide a degree of protection. In contrast to other major rail lines leading into Vienna, this vintage rail route from Bohemia truly engages with the Danube.
We make a pause at Heiligenstadt, situated on the northern outskirts of the city, where most passengers disembark to catch convenient connections for urban transport. Consequently, we find ourselves nearly alone on the train during the final few minutes leading into Vienna’s Franz-Josefs-Bahnhof. This underground station stands devoid of any traces of imperial grandeur.
