Excellent walking opportunities await as the days get longer and the weather gets milder, amidst a Dorset cider orchard, a Highland glen, a peaceful countryside in Powys, and the striking Atlantic vistas of County Derry.
West Dorset, located in England.
During the spring season, a drive along the A3066 towards Bridport in England may offer a delightful sight of pink apple blossom at the heart of Melplash village. If you decide to stop and park in the layby opposite the Half Moon pub, a footpath leading through the trees and up and over Hincknowle Hill awaits.
This small orchard was established in 2011 by the late Rupert Best, and is brimming with unique cider apple trees that were once lost and rediscovered in various nooks and crannies of Dorset. It holds a special place in my heart as it represents a decade-long journey of exploring forgotten parts of Dorset with my friend Nick, who is from West Milton Cider near Bridport.
Over 10,000 acres of orchards once thrived in the county. Regrettably, a significant number of West Country farm orchards have disappeared, with more than two-thirds lost since the 1960s. These have been replaced with bush trees to cater to the demands of large commercial cider-makers.
However, Nick and I believe that we have contributed to restoring the county’s balance by providing young craft cider-makers in Dorset with apples that have a traditional local flavor. Walking amidst these trees during the blooming season, relishing their fragrance, observing their healthy state and abundant blossoms, brimming with the promise of plentiful fruit to be harvested this autumn for some excellent cider, is indeed a rewarding experience.
Montgomery, located in Powys, Wales.
One could easily mistake the scene for a movie set, perhaps featuring charming midwives on bicycles. The Georgian and Victorian architecture exudes character, with vintage signage and a ruined castle perched atop a rock. In springtime, the banks are adorned with the cheerful blooms of primroses and daffodils.
After retracing your steps to the road, take the lane that runs past the old gaol and Dragon hotel, leading into Broad Street, where you’ll find cafes and a bookshop. On the opposite side of the street, in the churchyard, lies a sobering reminder for those involved in the legal system – the grave of John Davies. In 1821, he was falsely accused of highway robbery by a love rival and sentenced to death. As he was led to the gallows, the town was said to have been struck by thunder and lightning, and Davies reportedly uttered a terrible curse: that no grass would ever grow on his grave (although I do think he could have been harsher on his false accusers). True to his word, the grass struggled to grow for over a century, and even now, it remains patchy.
Sutherland, located in Scotland.
The Highland glen through which the River Carron cascades is shrouded in an eerie atmosphere, with a history as murky and tempestuous as the water itself. Personally, I enjoy fishing for spring salmon in the churning pools, finding solace in the weather as it cleanses my soul of the winter chill.
You can go on a pleasant out-and-back hike that crosses a lovely old road bridge. Follow the left bank up into the Gledfield estate and keep an ear out for the sound of a cuckoo, which has just returned from Africa and is sure to disrupt the nesting of a meadow pipit.
Near the bridge, in the spring of 1650, the Marquis of Montrose was defeated in the Battle of Carbisdale during the Wars of the Three Kingdoms. Despite being hanged, beheaded and quartered a month later, the poet-soldier would later be romanticized into a hero by Walter Scott, earning the adoration of many, including my own mother.
Northern Ireland
Begin your journey at Castlerock station, located in County Derry’s north-west, near Coleraine. Head towards Tunnel Brae, where you’ll find the Gate Lodge entrance to Downhill Demesne. This former estate belonged to Earl-Bishop Frederick Hervey (1730–1803) and is now a National Trust property. If you’re travelling by car, you can park at the Black Glen car park, but you’ll need transportation at the walk’s other end. Alternatively, you can take a circular or about-turn route through this Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. There are plenty of stopping places along the adjacent A2 road, which also has a bus service connecting Limavady and Coleraine.
As you emerge onto the grassy terrain, a colossal ruin atop the hill catches your eye. This is the former residence of the Earl-Bishop, with signage indicating that Mussenden Temple was erected in honour of a young female cousin whom he was particularly fond of. However, it appears to be more of a folly than anything else.
Despite this, the temple’s elegant structure seems to harmonize with its rugged environment. Every line and contour of stone exudes a restrained passion. Try to decipher the Latin inscriptions beneath the eaves and take a peek through the Georgian doors’ keyhole. Lean over the wall to observe the fulmars gliding on the updrafts below.