With its stunning beaches, delectable cuisine, and excellent hiking opportunities, this Alentejo getaway attracts Portuguese families during the summer months. However, it remains largely undiscovered by British tourists
Coastal and river beaches blend seamlessly near Vila Nova de Milfontes in the Alentejo, a picturesque name that translates to “new town of a thousand springs.” This destination, situated at the mouth of the Mira River, is a popular choice for Portuguese families in the peak of summer, yet it remains largely undiscovered by British tourists, despite its stunning beaches, delicious cuisine, and excellent hiking opportunities.
Located in the upper portion of the 100-kilometer-long Parque Natural do Sudoeste Alentejano e Costa Vicentina, the main beaches are situated at the ria, where the river meets the sea. Across the ria from the town lies Praia das Furnas, a lengthy beach accessible by car or ferry, featuring sandbars at low tide that add to the enjoyment of playing in the crashing waves. Closer to town are Praia da Franquia, Praia de Vila Nova Milfontes, and Praia de Farol (Lighthouse Beach), known for its gently sloping sands.
On the Atlantic coast, Malhão boasts a rugged beauty, and while Aivados beach is not clearly signposted, locals are happy to provide directions. Kayaks and paddleboards are available for hire here, but caution is advised in the water, as with all untamed Atlantic beaches. Several excellent beach bars and restaurants are scattered about, such as Ocean Drive 7 on Furnas beach and Choupana on Farol beach, a charming fish shack that offers a perfect vantage point for watching the sunset.
Tasca do Celso in town is famous for its prawns cooked in garlic, served with rice infused with the flavorful juices of sweet clams
Vila Nova de Milfontes features charming whitewashed houses accented with brightly colored windows and doors, overlooked by Fort São Clemente. Built in 1602 to protect the town from Barbary pirates, the fort is now closed to the public, but it’s enjoyable to stroll around its perimeter, taking in views of the ria.
This is a destination favored by food enthusiasts. Alentejo cuisine is known for its simplicity and rusticity. Stale bread is transformed into the flavorful Portuguese dish açorda, a soup-like bread dish seasoned with olive oil and coriander, sometimes topped with an egg or seafood. While lamb and pork are common, fish and seafood also play a prominent role.
The Tasca do Celso in town is famous for its prawns cooked with garlic and rice, flavored with the juice of sweet clams. Owner José Ramos Cardoso can often be found inspecting the fish over a charcoal grill or sharing details about some of the gems from his extensive wine list with customers.
Mabi Croissanterie & Gelateria is the go-to spot for ice cream (try the local favorite, carapinhão, made with cream, caramel, and pine nuts), as well as cakes, pastries, and a variety of homemade savory snacks known as salgados, such as prawn patties, meat croquettes, and small chicken pies.
Idália Costa José warmly welcomes guests to Casa do Adro da Igreja (Churchyard House), her charming 17th-century residence located in the heart of town, just a short stroll from the beach. The interior exudes a cozy, familial atmosphere with antique furnishings, photographs, and assorted trinkets adorning the space. Idália often treats guests to a slice of her delicious bolo de chocolate cake along with aperitifs or tea, aiming to create a sense of being spoiled, much like by a beloved Portuguese aunt.
The house features a small guest kitchen stocked with complimentary fruit, beer, and wine, as well as two terraces for guests to relax on. There are seven double bedrooms, some offering balconies with lovely views. Vila Nova de Milfontes is a scenic two-hour drive south from Lisbon. Double rooms at Casa do Adro da Igreja start from €105 including breakfast in April.